Outdoor Retailer Summer 2014 Climbing Report

“See anything cool?” That’s the question I’m often asked when I tell people I’ve been at the Outdoor Retailer show. And my response is usually along the lines of, yeah, I saw some cool stuff, but nothing really groundbreaking. Most of the time, products get incremental upgrades, or offer solutions to problems that maybe aren’t that big of a deal (like when all those fancy rope bags came out a few years ago. Did we really have a problem with the simple tarp design?).

Many companies continue to expand horizontally to capitalize on brand loyalty, though rarely does this involve innovative products. That being said, there are certainly a fair number of products out there that are the result of designers and engineers who are passionate about what they do, and are trying to bring consumers the best tools for the job at hand.

The first six items listed below were the ones we felt were the most notable, after which you’ll find a more comprehensive list of what we saw at all the companies we visited with, and a photo gallery at the bottom of this page if you just want to drool over the shiny new stuff.

The most innovative piece of gear we saw was the Camp Matik ($200), an assisted braking device made of hot forged aluminum and stainless steel that offers two unique features over existing devices. The Anti-Panic system kicks in in the event that the belayer pulls back too quickly on the lever, reengaging the cam and preventing the climber from being dropped. Also, the cam angle works different than on a GriGri, giving a more dynamic belay, which they claim reduces fall forces by up to 40%. At $200, the price could seem a bit steep for some, but the added safety features may just be worth it. It works on ropes from 8.6 to 10.2, with the sweet spot in the 8.9 to 9.5 range.

The latest offering from master shoe designer Heinz Mariacher, the Scarpa Furia ($179) may be the closest you can come to climbing barefoot. They’ve eliminated the midsole, meaning there is little between your foot and the rock other than 3mm of XS Grip2 rubber. With a new active rand tensioning system they are calling the Power Connection Band, this is a powerful, precise tool for steep, modern climbing.

Arc’teryx has revamped their entire harness line, going from nine models to five. The SL-340 ($119) is a unisex sport model, with two gear loops. The FL-365 ($149) is the all around model, in men’s and women’s versions. And the AR-395 ($159) is the ice climbing/mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops, also available in men’s and women’s versions. They all feature improved strength, durability and comfort, thanks to the Burly(TM) Double Weave fabric, and the leg loop shape has been improved for better fit, so you can hang on the rope to your heart’s content while you try to figure out the beta on your next project.

I love the La Sportiva Futura, but always hoped for the day when we’d have a lace up version. Enter the Genius ($190), which is basically a Testarossa with the No Edge concept. The price is steep, but this is likely to be the most advanced shoe in the Sportiva quiver. Also, they are making an effort to create a resole partnership with Rock and Resole in Boulder, realizing that the price is high for shoes you can basically use once in their original form.

Not happy with what was currently on the market, the folks at Trango designed what they feel is the ultimate Crag Pack ($99). The 48L bag features guidebook and shoe pouches on the outside, a tarp that you can lay out your gear on, and a dialed suspension I was told carries very well. It also comes with 25 small trash bags in a partnership with the Access Fund.

The Mad Rock Lifeguard is an assisted braking device so new they only had a rough prototype at the show. Hot forged, it’s all metal and utilizes a different cam angle than the GriGri, allowing rope to be fed out using classic belay technique, nothing new to learn here. Price should be in the $69 to $79 range, and it’ll work on ropes from 8.9 to 11.

The rest of the report is organized by company in alphabetical order, with a comprehensive photo gallery at the end.

Arc’teryx

The big news here was a brand new shoe line. I was able to talk with shoe designer Federico Sbrissa, who told me they wanted to build something from the ground up that focused on durability, comfort, fit, weatherproofness and versatility. Two years in the making, the solution they’ve come up with is to separate the shoe from the liner, which adapts to your foot, meaning there is zero break in time. The absence of a tongue also eliminates pressure points and provides a more comfortable, custom fit. The outsole uses Vibram Megagrip rubber outsole, and you can choose between GoreTex and regular liners, as well as a mid top version.

Beal

The Beal Opera is the new skinniest single rope in the world, at an astounding 8.5mm and 48g/m. Triple rated, it also uses unicore construction that fuses the sheath with the core, improving the safety margin should the rope get damaged.

Black Diamond

The Creek 50 ($189) is a crag pack that looks like a haul bag, but offers the functionality of zippering all the way open to access your gear. The Pipe Dream 45 ($169) looks like a small crash pad, but carries up to 45 liters of gear. It was developed by Maple Canyon climbers who were tired of getting all their stuff covered in the fine layer of dust that coats the bottom of the Pipe Dream cave, and should be popular with the cragging crowd. When you get to the cliff, it offers a comfortable place to sit and put on your shoes. Those who want something more traditional can check out the Stone 45, a crag duffel pack. The Hot Forge hybrid is down/synthetic combo offering the best of both worlds in a stylish design. The Mono Point is a lightweight rain shell. They are also launching a full line of women’s climbing apparel.

CAMP

The Nano 22 gets a redesign that makes it stronger, and greatly improves the gate action.

DMM

The Grip ($49.95) is an interesting take on the single rope belay device, utilizing springs, magnets and a unique construction to offer increased holding power on ropes from 8.5 to 11mm.

Edelrid

The Topaz is a 9.2 sport climbing rope that uses the same yarns as their popular 9.5 Eagle Light, allowing for a stiff sheath that feels burly and should prove to be a reliable workhorse of a rope. The Rap Line II is 6.5mm tag line that is an accessory cord with a dynamic safety reserve. What this means is that it’s static up to 4-5kN, at which point the dynamic core takes over and absorbs the rest of the force, which could be an attractive safety feature for some. The Fraggle gets upgraded with a new waist belt on the back to address concerns with kids falling out of the harness, and there is a kid’s helmet, the Kid’s Shield. There is also a new alpine harness, the Wing, weighing 330g with adjustable leg loops. Lastly, the Jul 2 is a single rope (8.4 to 11mm) belay device that locks up in a fall but allows for a more dynamic catch than the Mega Jul.

Evolv

The Luchador (and SC velcro version) ($139) is an all around shoe in the Sharma series, aimed at intermediate to advanced climbers. The Nikita and Spark are entry level, all leather shoes for $79. The Addict SC ($115) is a velcro version of the slipper, with unlined leather.

Five Ten

Fans of the old Daescent will dig the new Catburglar, an ultralight approach shoe with a collapsible heel that looks perfect for places like Red Rocks or the Black Canyon. The Camp 4 gets upgraded with GoreTex for those living in wetter climates.

Fixe

The Aliens have been redesigned, now featuring an improved trigger design that felt much smoother in hand. They also reduced the head width by 20%, and upgraded the sling, which is smaller and stronger.

Grivel

Grivel has several new harnesses aimed at alpinists, including the dry treated Poseidon, with comfort being a main goal for extended missions in the alpine.

Mammut

The Alpine Zephyr was designed by their top athletes as the ultimate alpine climbing harness. In response to the UIAA water repellent standard, they have a new classification system for their ropes: Classic, Protect & Dry. Classic ropes feature no treatment, Protect ropes offer an abrasion resistance treated sheath, and the Dry line features full dry treatment on the core fibers and sheath, and only absorbs 1% of its weight when wet.

Metolius

The popular Bravo carabiner is now available in a keylock version ($7.95), with a corresponding quickdraw ($18.95) featuring a beefy 1” nylong sling. The Gym Bag ($29.95) is a modified rope bag you can use as a tote for carrying your gear. The Floor Mat ($7.95) is handy little pad for wiping off your shoes at the base of the crag, and certainly looks nicer than that crappy piece of carpet you are probably currently using.

Outdoor Research

The Deviator Hoody ($185) uses Polartec Alpha insulation in front, and a Power Dry grid fabric in the back and on the arms. It looks to be a lighter, more breathable version of the Acetylene jacket. The Astroman shirt ($85) gets a long sleeve version, and the Gold Rush Jeans ($99) bring some style to cold weather cragging.

Patagonia

The big push at Patagonia for Spring 2015 is in climbing, and there were several fun new products here, that range in use from casual cragging to alpine. The Venga Pant is a cotton/lycra blend that looked stylish and functional. The next step up is the RPS Pant which, replaces the Rock Craft pant. The Simul Pant offers more protection, with zippered pockets and storm flaps on the pockets. The Dual Point is the highest level soft shell pant for ice climbing and backcountry skiing adventures. The Levitation Hoody replaces the Knifeblade, and features their new tech cuffs. The Nano Air Vest uses their breathable FullRange insulation. They have three new packs, the 16L Linked ($79), with an easy access draw cord style closure and a rope strap across the top. The 35L Crag Smith ($129) will probably be the most popular, with back panel and top access. and the 45L Crag Daddy ($179) is duffel style pack, with a rope strap across the top.

Petzl

The focus at Petzl this summer was on their harnesses. The Hirundos gets a full upgrade, much like the Sama did last year. The new Fuseframe technology incorporates webbing elements into the foam, making for a more comfortable fit. The new DoubleBack HD buckle is supposed to be easier to use, and the tie in points are 100% Dyneema. The Aquila is similar in design to the Hirundos, but with adjustable leg loops. The Macchu is a new kids harness, that comes with an optional chest harness as well.

Rab

As usual, some fun things from Rab. The Flashpoint ($325) is a 6 ounce, three layer jacket. The Sawtooth Hoody is a 20 ounce softshell. They are also offering a (gasp) casual line. The Onsight Shirt ($60) looked slick, with a 80/20 cotton/poly blend and gusseted armpits so that your shirts stays tucked under your harness when climbing.

Salewa

Bringing the focus back to mountaineering and alpinism, Salewa introduces the Wildfire Pro, which they developed in conjunction with Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. The new Vibram Megagrip sole is 25% stickier than the old model, and has a more rigid structure thanks to its exoskeleton design.

Scarpa

The Vapor V ($159) has been fully redesigned, including improvements to the heel making for a better fit and improving the comfort of the shoe.

Sierra Designs

Their popular Backcountry Bed will now be offered in an Elite version, featuring 850 fill down, that’s comfortable to 30 degrees.

Sterling Ropes

After a few relatively quiet shows, Sterling introduces four new models. In the Evolution line, the Helix 9.5 and Aero 9.2 are new ropes with smaller cores and more sheath, good for durability. In the Fusion line, the popular Nano IX goes on a weight loss plan as it hits 9mm, and features a firmer hand than the previous model. The Ion becomes the Ion R, still in the 9.4 diameter, but with a firmer sheath construction.

Trango

The Tenaya Tarifa ($165) is a new high end shoe with a narrow last and stiffer midsole than the Oasi, perfect for technically demanding routes. The Superfly locker goes from $12.95 to $8.50, and the Raptor ice tool ($175) has an improved, larger grip.

Ticla

This was an interesting lifestyle camping company we checked out, founded on the premise that many people who are car camping don’t really need expedition quality gear. They had some fun lanterns, tents and a really cool double sleeping pad.

Westcomb

The Nova & Luminous are technical pullovers that utilize merino next to the skin, with a polyester outer fabric for quick drying.

Wild Country

The Superlight Offset Rocks are a new take on the offset nut design, shaving metal off where it isn’t needed. You had to hold a set to believe how light they are. $70 for the set, or $14.50 each. Also new Wildwire ‘biners that are color coded to the quickdraw length and the Electron is a beefy sport climbing ‘biner/draw combo.

Product Gallery Below:

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A huge thanks to all the great folks we met with!