Five Ten Verdon Review

The latest offering from Five Ten, the Verdon is a stiff, supportive shoe that performs well on pockets and routes with demanding edging.

The Verdon uses a molded thermoplastic midsole, meaning it’s one of the stiffest shoes in the Five Ten line, and certainly one of the stiffest shoes I’ve ever worn. Admittedly, I am a fan of softer shoes, as I like to be able to feel the subtlety of the holds I’m standing on. Stiffer shoes always throw me off at first, and these were no different. However, if you like/need that much support, you’ll be hard pressed to find something better. And some folks downright love them!

When it comes to standing on very small holds, there seem to be two schools of thought. One is that you need a very stiff shoe to support your foot and help take weight off your arms. The other is that you need a soft shoe so that you can feel the hold and confidently use it to move upwards. I would argue it’s a matter of personal preference, though maybe someone out there can prove me wrong with science.

Thanks to the synthetic Clarino lining, they are very comfortable, though it’s important to note that the sizing runs small, and I’d suggest going with your street shoe size. At first when I put them on I thought they were too tight, but the Clarino quickly stretches and molds to your foot, making for excellent out-of-the-box comfort. It won’t really stretch out, though, so each time you wear them they stretch to accommodate your foot, but then might feel tight again the next time you put them on.

Since the Blancos were discontinued last year, people are asking how these compare. For one, the toe is much pointier on this, making it better for pockets. The toe box is wider, so if you have big feet, these will probably feel much better, though the asymmetric shape might be a factor to consider if you aren’t used to wearing those kinds of shoes. The Verdon is also stiffer than the Whites, which could be good or bad depending on your preferences. The heel is much more comfortable, and doesn’t dig in like it does on the Blanco. Sized big, these could be great all day trad shoes, like a stiffer Katana Lace.

As far as smearing is concerned, because they are so stiff they are maybe the worst shoes for smearing I have ever worn. That’s not why you’d get these, but be warned, it’s going to take a lot of pitches before the smearing feels slightly less awkward then a junior-high dance.

If you like comfortable, stiffer shoes that can edge and climb pockets well, these are worth a look.

Fit: I wear a 12 in Blackwings, 11 in Blancos, and got these in 12s which feels a bit tight since they don’t really stretch. For trad I would go up a half size, for sport they are perfect just the way I got them.

Retail: $160
Sizes: 4-13
Upper: Clarino (synthetic) lined leather.
Sole: C4
Stretch: Minimal, don’t expect much.
Break-in time: A couple sessions.
Ideal use: Thin face climbs, pockets, all-day trad climbs.

Disclaimer: Wait! Before you go handing over your credit card number, ask yourself, do you really need to buy more new stuff? If so, this product is worth a look. In the spirit of full disclosure, it was provided to SplitterChoss.com for the purpose of reviewing. Don’t worry, though, our integrity can’t be bought!