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Climbing, Adventure, Gear & Choss
The Reversino, Best Belay Device for Ice Climbing. Ever.
The Reverso is a great belay device. The option to belay directly off an anchor and create an auto locking belay for the second is fantastic. The only downfall is that skinny ropes, especially in winter, don’t hold very well. Rappelling on them after an ice climb can be somewhat exciting, as you’re trying to grip the cords and they want to move faster and faster through the device. At first glance the Reversino seems to fit such a specific niche that it really isn’t all that useful, but after comparing the two, I’m sold. The difference in how well they grip skinny cords is night and day. With the Reverso, iced up skinny ropes definitely make for some exciting rappelling. Plug those same ropes into a Reversino, and watch all your worries fade away. The way it locks down on skinny cords is fantastic, and greatly adds to your peace of mind on your next rappel. If you climb with small diameter twin or double ropes in the winter, this is an essential piece of gear.
3 Responses to The Reversino, Best Belay Device for Ice Climbing. Ever.
Bulldog Creek Dog Walk (IV WI 4+)
Hayden Carpenter and Tom Bohanon recently repeated an obscure ice climb on the south side of Mt Sopris. Given a brief mention in Jack Robert’s ice guide, Bulldog Creek Walk is described as being 100 meters of WI 4. What they found was seven pitches of ice in a remote setting that makes for one […]
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The Reversino IS an awesome piece of gear, especially if your only always using small diameter ropes… However, the Reverso is so much more versatile with ropes, and when using skinnies with it, just back up your rap’s with a prusik or autoblock knot which, with icy ropes, you should do using either device.
I agree that if you only can have one, then get a Reverso, but if you’ve got the extra cash and climb mostly with skinny cords in the winter, the Reversino sure is nice to have! Even with an autoblock backup, the smaller device is easier to use with small ropes.
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