Fixe USA is a branch of their parent company in
For a long time the standard bolt for climbing has been the Rawl 5 piece. This bolt works well in a variety of rock types, but it has its flaws, most notably the tendency to jam up in the hole, due to all the pieces. The idea behind the Fixe Triplex bolt is that it takes the functionality of the Rawl/Powers 5 piece and eliminates some of the parts. The result is a very simple and strong bolt that consists of a nut, a sleeve and stud/cone. This virtually eliminates the possibility for the bolt to jam in the hole. No more botched placements!
A very unique feature of this bolt is that it’s also designed to be easily removable for inspection and/or replacement. The way this is accomplished is that the recommended 12mm bits drill a hole slightly larger than the diameter of the bolt. The bolt tightens up just fine, but if you need to remove it, you loosen the nut, and pry the sleeve off. Presto, out comes the bolt! I was skeptical at first, how well could this really work? But my first try at removing one went smooth and it really does work. The only caveat with this bolt is that because the hole is slightly larger than the bolt, you need to be certain you tighten it properly the first time.
These bolts are more expensive than their Rawl counterparts, but you certainly can’t beat them for quality. So the next time you head out, ditch the red heads (Are you really still placing those?) and grab a box of Triplex bolts instead.
Hayden Carpenter and Tom Bohanon recently repeated an obscure ice climb on the south side of Mt Sopris. Given a brief mention in Jack Robert’s ice guide, Bulldog Creek Walk is described as being 100 meters of WI 4. What they found was seven pitches of ice in a remote setting that makes for one […]
I’ll take your advice Chossmaster. We all know you have plenty experience pluggin hardware into stone.
used them, don’t really care for them. you HAVE to use Locktight or the nut will shimmy loose. also, since the hole is rather large, you can sometimes finding yourself with a bolt that simply won’t tighten.
Powers 5-pc is better IMO
i like using them when you encounter a band of soft rock; as later you can return and install a glue-in and use the same hole.