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Climbing, Adventure, Gear & Choss
Back in the Black Canyon
Last week I got to spend four incredible days climbing in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. We managed to put together a pretty good crew that trickled in over the course of several days, teaming up for various ascents along the way. This was my fifth visit to the canyon and perhaps one of the most fun climbing trips I’ve had in recent memory.
First up was Escape Artist. Ya and I had never climbed together in a multi-pitch setting, and certainly not one so demanding as the Black, so we figured it would be a good intro. A lazy morning had us out of camp around 9:30, and down the SOB gully into the canyon. Fortunately we had the place to ourselves, despite the late start. The highlights of the route were the crack at the top of the 70 meter first pitch, the wild Vector Traverse, and the never ending stemming of the crux pitch (calf pump!). We were in the shade until the last 250′ of 5.6 exit slabs, and once the sun hit us we realized we’d need to be in the shade for the rest of the trip.
Derek rolled into camp later that night, and we settled on Comic Relief for the next day. Another leisurely start had us walking down the SOB gully again around 9:30, and today there were other climbers all around us. The route was fantastic, offering up pitch after pitch of excellent crack climbing. We were all impressed with the quality, and both Ya and I were feeling tired but happy with the 2000′ of climbing we’d done in the first two days. That night Steve joined us, and he and Derek made plans while Ya and I tossed back some beers, knowing that we had earned a day off.
Our rest day was excellent, including a late start, some stretching at Chasm View, watching our friends climb, and scoping future adventures. Jon and Mike arrived around 4pm, and quickly headed off to go simul-climb Maiden Voyage. That night around the fire we made plans for the next day, and headed off to sleep relatively early.
Our most “alpine” start of the trip had us up at 7, and out of camp by 8 am. Whoa buddy, we’re kicking ass now! Steve and Mike had headed out earlier as they were going for the Moveable Stoned Voyage, so Derek, Jon, Ya and myself all descended the Cruise Gully together. They were heading for Midsummer Night’s Dream, while we were going to check out the Checkerboard Wall. We had great views of each other as the day progressed, and even some banter back and forth at exciting moments. Nothing like pulling through a crux to hear your buddies on another wall cheering for you.
We made it back to camp first, and the others sooned joined us as we relaxed in the afternoon and listened to the thunder rolling closer and closer. As the rained started, we broke down camp, thankful we were off our routes, and wondering how the parties not yet at the rim would handle the weather.
All in all it was a fantastic trip, with excellent routes, great friends and one of the most incredible canyon’s anywhere.
12 Responses to Back in the Black Canyon
Bulldog Creek Dog Walk (IV WI 4+)
Hayden Carpenter and Tom Bohanon recently repeated an obscure ice climb on the south side of Mt Sopris. Given a brief mention in Jack Robert’s ice guide, Bulldog Creek Walk is described as being 100 meters of WI 4. What they found was seven pitches of ice in a remote setting that makes for one […]
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Wow, great TR! It’s so awesome to read about somebody climbing in the canyon for four days and NOT having an epic. I’ve been wanting to climb out there for years now, but my husband is convinced we’ll die. Which, I suppose, is possible.
What guidebook do you have for this area? The only one I’ve seen that covers the Black is the big Climbing Colorado book, and it doesn’t have many routes in it. Would you say that the rock quality on the “trade” routes is pretty good? It doesn’t sound like you had too much problem with rock fall…?
Hey Kate. I have the Black Canyon Rock Climbs book, but your best resource is MountainProject.com. The descriptions and gear lists were pretty accurate. The rock quality on the trade routes is fine, with the occasional funk here and there, but nothing to get worked up about. Avoiding rock fall is pretty easy if you don’t climb under other people, which could be difficult on the popular routes on a weekend…
Cool report and pics BJ. I saw your name on the Ranger Station Board Sunday and have been checking the site this week for just this post. Looks like you guys had a good time.
“da black”! my fav for big routes fo sho! good route topos at the ranger station…atlantis 5.11, is my fave.
My guidebooks were BJ, Ya, Steve, & Jon.
Sssshhhhh, the Black is all choss. Stay away! You will die!
Props to Jon for calling me out on my 5.9 sandbag of him at the start of Maiden Voyage. There’s a blog post in itself!
Jason, we had a blast! Hope you guys weren’t among the unlucky who got caught in that rain!
I got schneiter’d…
Speaking of getting “schneiter’d”, who else is in for more new route work on the Mudwall?
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