Ground Breaking 5.14 in Glenwood Canyon

A ground-breaking new line was recently completed in Glenwood Canyon, with 15-pitches of climbing up to 5.14c.  Redpointed last week by Tommy Caldwell, the line tackles a difficult and steep section of cliff to the left of Michael Kennedy’s popular route, the International.

Mr. Caldwell was recently seen in Glenwood getting a spa treatment at the Yampah Hot Springs, and confirmed completion of the line. “I’ve driven through Glenwood Canyon countless times on my way to Rifle, the Fortress, and other westward points, and my attention was continually drawn to the imposing walls of towering choss in the canyon. Last year I spent some time exploring a line and I finally got a chance to finish it off last week.”

Inspired by climbing in the Dolomites, Tommy used a minimum number of bolts, instead favoring a large bucket of soft iron pitons, a practice popularized by another prominent Glenwood Canyon developer. Only a week old, the line is already drawing the attention of many of the sport’s greatest climbers. Chris Sharma was recently seen sipping triple vanilla non-fat soy lattes in the Summit Canyon Mountaineering Coffee House in between burns. “It’s probably the sickest line I’ve ever tried,” recounted Sharma, “Tommy is a mega sandbagger, though, that line is probably way harder than 14c!”

The Belgian tradster, Nicolas Favresse, was also reported to have spent time on the route in the last week, traveling to western Colorado to try the instant classic. However, it appears he has abandoned his effort to instead focus on the super classic road choss at the Puoux. “I really wanted to get the second ascent of this new line, but it’s just too f’in’ hard, man. Besides, I hear Bisharat’s new line at the Puoux is mega!”

The route features 12 pitches of 5.12 and harder, including five pitches of 5.14. With its sustained difficulty, it may be one of the hardest climbs outside of Yosemite. With the line completed, Caldwell has moved on to other local projects, including a “super sick bouldering traverse of the Puoux which will finally put the area on the world climbing map. Shhhh.”