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Climbing, Adventure, Gear & Choss
How Long Can It Last?
I spent several days last week working/climbing along Potash Road outside Moab, UT. For those who haven’t been, it’s Navajo sandstone, which is softer than Wingate, the stuff at Indian Creek. It’s a popular crag, however, being right off the road and offering many bolted pitches, which is somewhat rare in the Utah desert. Anyhow, because this rock is so soft, it has really been worn down by climbers over the years. Cracks that once had sharp edges are now fully rounded. Footholds turn into slopey, sandy shelves. The tops of the rocks get grooves in them from top roping.
Looking at all this, I couldn’t help but wonder how it would hold up to another 50 years of use. If climbing continues to gain in popularity and crags like this see more traffic, where will they be down the road? The routes are changing dramatically, and I suppose everything will just get harder. Of course, this is also happening at the Creek, with the ever popular “Incredible Hand Crack is getting bigger” rant. On one hand I suppose it’s the nature of the game in the desert, with the rock being so soft, but on the other it’s sad to think that the original experiences will be long gone by the time my kids (who don’t even exist yet) get to check out these climbs. “Dad, tell us again how Incredible Hand Crack used to be.” “Those were the days. It once was perfect hands the whole way, none of this overhanging blue camalot crap we have now…”
Not saying it’s right or wrong, just thinking outloud.
5 Responses to How Long Can It Last?
Bulldog Creek Dog Walk (IV WI 4+)
Hayden Carpenter and Tom Bohanon recently repeated an obscure ice climb on the south side of Mt Sopris. Given a brief mention in Jack Robert’s ice guide, Bulldog Creek Walk is described as being 100 meters of WI 4. What they found was seven pitches of ice in a remote setting that makes for one […]
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I’ve been wondering the same although more in the context of limestone crags. Limestone gets polished by time and easy routes transform into terrible nightmares. Unlike sandstone, on limestone at least the shapes stay more or less the same, its just the texture that changes, but still it makes you incredibly sad.
Your not yet in existence kids will probably just have to work a little harder (that is if more roads aren’t built) to get to the bazillion other pristine desert cracks not yet climbed. The other option it would seem, though I wouldn’t recommend it, is going into these area’s and spraying ’em down with the secrete sauce. Most climbers are pretty good at sprayin’!
Better living through chemistry!
The “origional experience” was gone long ago on the day of the first ascent. You must mean “your” origional experience. While they might wonder why it was called Incredible Hand Crack I don’t think they’ll really care. They probably won’t even go to the creek because it will be closed to the public from overuse. Perhaps it’s your memories you fear loosing. They will be busy making their own. Ponder instead whether they will be able to have their own “origional experiences”. Routes, rocks, lives, loves, dreams, textures, holds and everything else will always change. The individuals origional is right now.
Maybe stop roasting new crags on the internet would help keep things casual.. more people never made anything better.