I seem to have an obsession with packs. The last time we moved, I realized we had packs I hadn’t seen in years (but of course I couldn’t get rid of them, what if I needed it later?) That being said, it seems that a lot of packs aren’t all that great, instead marketed to the masses who don’t really know better and will buy whatever the sales rep at the local gear shop tells them to. Every now and then, however, you come across a great pack that actually does what it’s supposed to, and in that category I would put the Osprey Mutant 38, loaded with features designed specifically for climbers.
I’ve been using this pack since last August for everything from casual cragging, to full on sport development, to ice climbing. It has held up to the abuse rather well, minus a puncture in the bottom that nothing outside of a haulbag could have withstood. As far as carrying capacity, it’s listed at 35L, but the floating lid allows it to be expanded to 48L, and it felt like it held significantly more than my Black Diamond Sphinx 45L. Maybe there is some shoddy math going on here, but whatever the reason, this is one of the few climbing packs that I feel can carry everything I need for a day at the crag, plus a rope on top. The outer fabric is durable but light, and the pack’s shape makes it easy to pile stuff into it. The suspension is nice and carries really well, even with heavier loads like, say, a drill, bolts, rope, etc.
As far as other features I like, there’s an inside pocket for a hydration bladder, as well as ice axe loops, and 3 haul points should you be bringing it up on a route with you. The hip belt is designed so that you can wear it climbing and rack gear on it, or clip it out of the way so it doesn’t interfere with your harness. And there’s also a removable bivy pad that’s part of the back panel, leave it in for comfort, or take it out to go fast and light. And speaking of fast and light, the top lid is removable if you are trying to strip the pack down to a bare minimum.
Not too many gripes here, but I do feel that a climbing specific pack should have a good system for carrying a helmet. A simple cord on the top lid would enable this,which is much nicer than having to stuff it in the pack or clip it to the outside where it can bang around or get caught on stuff. The only other complaints I have come from using the pack in the cold and snow. One chilly morning I broke one of the pull tabs, which was really brittle in the low temperatures. And the small waist buckle seemed to get easily clogged with snow, which then prevented it from snapping shut.
Now, these were originally intended for racking gear, but of course I found an excellent alternate use for them: bolt bandoleer. Never again fumble around in your satchel for the right bolts, this keeps your handy implements close and allows for rapid route development. Other suggested uses include a holder for cigarettes, if you are more Euro, and licorice if you have a sweet tooth.
All joking aside, this is a very worthy climbing pack. For cold weather pursuits it seemed to have a few quirks, but for rock climbing, it’s a great bag. If they add a better way to carry a helmet, it would be a contender for one of the best out there.
Disclaimer: The FTC wants you all to know that this product was provided to SplitterChoss.com for the purpose of reviewing. We beat the hell out of gear and don’t post about it unless it’s up to our standards.
Hayden Carpenter and Tom Bohanon recently repeated an obscure ice climb on the south side of Mt Sopris. Given a brief mention in Jack Robert’s ice guide, Bulldog Creek Walk is described as being 100 meters of WI 4. What they found was seven pitches of ice in a remote setting that makes for one […]
Nice ‘bolt hangers’…..if they could find a way to manage that pesky hammer drill :o/
Ok, the bolt bandoleer is pretty freaking cool! But do you actually wear the pack while bolting?
Anyone know if this is a good pack for a woman? I am specifically looking for a climbing pack between 35-40L to carry all I need for a day of climbing and this looks like it meets my requirements, but it won’t do a bit of good unless it’s comfy for those long approaches. Does it have an adjustable chest strap (moves up and down so as not to squish my melons)? I have a pack that is not specifically for women and it’s a small but it doesn’t “fit” me so well (Go-Lite). Any further info from those that have used it?
Thanks!
SW
Hi Sarah! I’m going to pipe in here, you should definitely check out the Osprey Variant pack. I wrote a review of it here on the SC, back in March: https://www.splitterchoss.com/2010/03/19/osprey-variant-52-pack-review/
The pack comes in 28, 37 & 52 liters, I have the 52 and have put it to the test in the year or so that I’ve had it. You shouldn’t have any melon squishing issues, and it carries extremely well! If you are a smaller lady, I would get the small size for sure. I measured my torso length and based on that got the medium size and wish I’d gotten a small instead. Let me know if you have any other questions!
Sounds like a great bag for climbers but I’m going travelling in a few months, I’m doing it proper backpacker style so don’t want a giant bag to weigh me down, would you recommend it for me? I am taking minimum accessories I just need a back that’s gunna look after me, what do you think?
Cheers
Charlie, I think this could be a perfect bag for that. It’s pretty low profile, I often use it as a carry on when I fly. Hope that helps!