Osprey Variant 52 Pack Review

Osprey is a company that I’ve consistently been impressed with over the years, as they make gear that lasts. In my decade as a climber, I’ve had many packs I’ve used for climbing, but the Variant is the first I’ve owned that is designed solely for mountain pursuits, with a focus on rock climbing, ice climbing and ski mountaineering.

The Good

The Variant has aluminum tubing throughout (removable), giving it a solid frame without too much added weight, and the end result is a pack that carries extremely well. On a recent trip to Red Rocks, I was hiking into Oak Creek Canyon as fast as my little legs could take me, (presumably to beat a party behind us to the base of the route), and was impressed how good the pack felt on my back, with no shifting on the shoulders or the lower back.

One of my favorite features is the Z designed hip belt, which makes it simple to tighten up and means that I don’t have to ask my fellow climbers to help me pull it tight for the proper fit. And speaking of the hip belt, it’s removable and can be stowed away if you so desire while climbing with your pack on. And for the ladies, the sternum strap has a wide range of placement, so it can fit comfortably around your, ahem, front structures. 😉

If you find yourself bringing it up a wall with you, it does have a built in hauling system, with three attachment points. However, I’m not sure how well the Cordura would hold up to being dragged across rough stone for a long ways.  And even though ice climbing is usually too cold for me, I did test the pack in Ouray-landia, and the adjustable tool bungee clips stowed my tools quickly and securely.

The Bad

My only criticism is that my crampons didn’t fit as easily as they should have in the crampon pouch with a fully loaded pack, and I have some tiny crampons. It also took some finagling to get them out of the pouch when I needed them on an unexpected icy decent.

The Bottom Line

All in all, this is a solid pack with many excellent features for climbers, and it has stood up well to the abuse of many climbing trips. I would recommend it without reservation to anyone who is looking for an excellent cragging pack!

Tracy Wilson does indeed have small legs and tiny crampons, and often can be found wearing puffy coats, even in the summer.