Community Service

As we drove into the Park, I immediately saw several people hanging from ropes, drilling away at the overhanging stone. It was the annual Rifle Cleanup, and folks were hard at work replacing the aging hardware in this limestone mecca. Different work projects are the focus of the event each year, and this time around it was all about upgrading old bolts.

There were numerous drills running throughout the canyon during the day, and it wasn’t just the high end routes that got some lovin’. Several of the popular easier climbs also got fully rebolted with brand new stainless hardware, thanks to the ASCA & ARI. Other work included some trail upgrades and a few nice benches in the Wasteland.

Rifle is a climbing paradise, which is made all the more enjoyable by the fact that the City of Rifle is fully in support of climbing in the canyon. They allow many routes to have fixed draws, and have been granting bolting permits for new climbs for the last couple of years. This has meant a steady flow of new stuff to climb on, whether you send 5.13 or just enjoy a casual 5.9. And given the City’s support, it’s important that as climbers we give back each year to show our thanks and help maintain the crag that is so loved by many.

This event also serves as a great example of how a lot can get done when everyone lends a hand. Bolt replacement is tiring, body crushing work, especially on the steeper routes. With a small army of volunteers, however, it’s impressive to see how much can get done. Here’s a recap:

• Spuds in Space (5.8), 9 bolts replaced.
• Hot Potato (5.9), 8 bolts replaced.
• James Brown’s Wild Ride (5.11d), 13 bolts (including new anchors) replaced with glue-ins.
• Merry Maids (5.10a), all route bolts replaced, with an extra bolt added near scary bottom crux.
• Lost and Found (5.12b), all bolts replaced.
• Dirty Johnson (5.12b), extra bolt added on run-out at top.
• Bumble Bee (5.9), two bolts added, to eliminate scary run-out.
• Popular Demand (5.10c), 8 bolts replaced, with some being moved into better positions.
• Guilt Parade (5.12c), all bolts replaced, including new anchors in a better position (Also note some choss has been removed, making climb safer).
• Ruckus (5.12b), anchors replaced and perma-drawed.
• The Beast (5.13a), anchor bolts replaced,perma-draws added,bad bolts replaced on Beast with two Backs extension.
• Never Believe (5.12d), new perma draws.
• Quickdraws (5.12c), rebolted with 9 new bolts.
• Living in Fear (5.13d), perma-draws and new anchors added.
• Let it Burn (5.13d), bolt added to eliminate run-out on Sam Elias’ new route.
• Mousetrap (5.12c), bolt added to protect 30-foot run-out scramble start, with dangerous choss blocks removed. The start is much cleaner and much safer now.
• Defenseless Betty (5.12a), bad bolt above roof replaced.
• Irie Meditation (5.11d), perma-drawed.
• Bottom Feeder (5.11b), perma-drawed.
• Sometimes Always (5.13c), rusted first bolt replaced.
• Rehabilitator (5.11c), first two bolts replaced with new perma-draws.
• Brothers Carruthers, bolts on traverse perma-drawed, and steel biners added to anchors.
• Climb-a-dime-a-ding-dang (5.12b), bad crux bolt replaced and moved lower for a better clipping position with chain/steel biner added.
• Rendez-Spew (5.13a), bad bolt above crux at lip of cave replaced.
• Pile Driver (5.11b), perma-draws added.
• Pygmy Mastodon Boner (5.12b), anchors added.
• Cracked Open Sky (5.13d), three glue-ins added.

• A better trail was built at entrance to Bauhaus in order to eliminate further erosion to the muddy soil.
• The bridge leading to the Sno Cone area was fixed.
• Two benches at Ruckman cave (one super-deluxe with beer holder)
• One bench at Project wall
• Two benches at Anti-phil
• One bench at Wichester
• Two benches at Bauhaus
• Two benches at Wasteland
• One bench at Arsenal

As usual, the BBQ afterwards was a great time to catch up with friends, and lots of folks won some gear in the raffle. Thanks to everyone who came out and lent a hand!