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Climbing, Adventure, Gear & Choss
The Way It Used to Be
Right up there with complaining about crowds, or maybe because of them, people also love to complain about how good things USED to be at almost every major climbing area in the country. Old crusty types seem to relish sitting around the fire, regaling us all with tales of the golden days gone by. Everything was always better in the past, apparently, and we are all doomed to live out our current existences in a shadowy glimmer of the glories of what once was.
Probably the most common area around here that gets this treatment is Indian Creek. Once upon a time, you drove out a one-lane dirt road to a land of endless splitters, with nary another soul for miles. I hear they also used to have dinosaurs back then too, and gold nuggets laying on the ground. Yes, it must have truly been amazing in those days, but world class cragging rarely stays secret for long, and a place like the Creek was destined to be a destination the moment all those splitter cracks came into being.
A quick perusal of the message boards on MountainProject.com yeilds many posts with people complaining about how the place is ruined, should be closed, etc. The most recent debate was sparked by the rumors of a new parking lot created by the BLM. Several years ago, they conducted a study of Indian Creek and came up with a plan for how to manage the area, given the increase in climber traffic. One of the problems they identified was the small parking area at the Supercrack/Donelly Canyon/Battle of the Bulge area. These are three of the most popular cliffs in the canyon, and the inadequate lot only held about 15 or so cars. The rest lined the sides of the highway, creating a hazardous situation for drivers and climbers alike.
This September the BLM began work on a larger parking lot, that will alleviate much of the parking problem, along with installing a toilet, a much needed amenity at this location. Some folks heard the news and were up in arms immediately, as the place continues it’s downward spiral in their minds. The more sensible among us realize that it’s a necessary improvement to the area, and will help a great deal to make parking safer and manage the ever present human waste issue. It’s also not nearly as huge as initially reported, and much less destructive than the miles of road that were paved through the canyon in the first place.
Some folks have taken to calling these people out for their crusty attitudes, but personally I mostly just feel sad for them. Sure, they experienced something special that will never exist again in that area. But how about all the new people that get to experience something similar? Is that not also important?
And if you do want to recreate “the way it used to be,” there is a place very close by that offers what the Creek must have been like 30 years ago. Unless there’s oil or uranium back there, there wont be any paved roads for a long time to come…
14 Responses to The Way It Used to Be
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I think it is so crazy how many people go to Supercrack/Donelly Canyon/Battle of the Bulge. They are the most crowded crags along with Scarface and I think that most people don’t know better.
I’ve been one of those people but I also have gone to crags and not seen a soul all day… Amazing splitters are everywhere! Especially if you are willing to hike more than 5 minutes.
Everyone going to the creek this fall should take the time and go to a NEW CRAG! There are many climbs just as good as Supercrack or the Incredible Hand Crack…
Luke, you are absolutely right, and that’s a great example of why the guidebook was GOOD for Indian Creek, it gave people so many more options! There are so many walls to explore, it’s crazy! That being said, it’s true that Supercrack has an amazing amount of high quality 5.10’s, Donnelly has some of the best “easy” routes, and Battle of the Bulge is just stacked, so those areas are justifiably popular in my mind.
And Matt, you are spot on. We really need to come together as a community as we become a larger user group and suddenly show up on the radar with the BLM and Forest Service, and they try to figure out what to do with us.
Great post, BJ. I’ve been climbing since 1986, and of course things have changed at all but the most backwater cliffs — and areas that used to be empty are now crowded. But c’est la vie; there are more people, and more climbers, on the planet than ever before. I agree that the crusters who can’t deal with this fact are pitiable.
If “your” old stomping grounds grow too crowded for you, it’s simple: move on. Find another cliff. Go on off days and off seasons. Walk a little farther from the road. Get over it. It’s good to see climbers and land managers being proactive, as they have been at Indian Creek. If that forces the whole BITD cruster crew to acknowledge a reality they’ve tried willfully not to understand, then the failure to adapt lies solely with them.
Things really weren’t that much better 25, 20, 15, even 10 years ago. There were just less of us out there, thus fewer (according to ratio) opportunities for impact and the associated problems. Now that more of us climb, it remains more critical than ever that we remain cohesive as a community, in order to keep crags healthy and open. A new parking lot and toilet at Donnelly/Supercrack Buttress is a good first step toward solving the crowding/parking issues at Indian Creek.
It would be a fun and interesting challenge to not climb at any area within 30 minutes from the car for a year? My first few visits to the creek were definitely the easy approach and moderate climbs, but now I enjoy a few less people and polished cracks. Guidebook authors could do a great service in further discussing less popular but still quality routes and cliffs to spread the masses a little thinner.
For sure Coop, that is one of the things that I was most disappointed with in the new Creek guidebook. In the back it lists like 15 other walls, but only gives cursory info about each. If they had taken the time to at least include photos and good directions, not to mention actually research the rest of the climbs, I think the book would have been way better and much more worthy of upgrading from the last version. And it would have spread visitors out even more. Maybe next time.
i just think the new lot should have had a sand finish instead of the “Walmart” paving!!! and a bathroom will be the best thing for this area.
everyone should take venture out to the other walls since they all rock!…and leave these old easy approached areas for us folks now with babies!:-)
(even though we will drag our son to any wall!)
p.s. we melted there this weekend, it was a little early!
I think something that the article fails to mention is that, although one would like to BELIEVE that the “good old days” were in the days of the dinosaur era, it really wasn’t that long ago. The changes that have happened in this particular climbing area have taken place in the last 10 years… Relatively fast when comparing the changes that have taken place in a climbing area like Yosemite or Smith Rock or The Gunks. I think it is important to recognize this because the amount of complaining I hear surrounding Indian Creek has more to do with this quick transition from “guidebook pamphlet” to full-color-coffee-table guidebook overnight. And, not to criticize David Bloom too much, but the guidebook (unlike an Eric Bjornstadt guidebook) fails to communicate the beauty and awe and pure natural wonder that a place like Indian Creek pervays. It isn’t as if we need a natural history lesson, but the passion in Bloom’s guidebook is very lateral– it is all about the climbing, and how to access it. This is, case in point: the guidebook, the general attitude of climbers new to the area, and the attitude of land management agencies such as the BLM are that similar to Walmart… Get as many cars/trucks/climbers/ dogs/ families into the parking areas as possible, regardless of retaining the character of the place. The character of Indian Creek is not that of a Walmart parking area, yet, having seen the parking area, one would really think that’s what it was.
Yesterday will never be today, and life is everchanging, simply put. But the natural beauty of a place and its magical character can still be honored. This is what’s so tragic about Indian Creek. The BLM even failed to build the lot with a proper entrance to the trail, or reinstall the educational kiosk! A new climber would neither know where the trail is, nor anything about the area.
I’ll stop now…
After nearly 20 years of climbing in Indian Creek its great to see that the car has trumped the toilet. I have seen the new Indian Creek Parking and helipad?(last week).10/10/10. But still no toilet with the approach of peak season, not even a wag station and a trash can. I’m amazed after all these years that people still can’t deal with there own shit! We offered many years ago to dig the hole and set up the damn toilet ( a lot of us actually own our heavy equipment) but the whole thing was bogged down in red tape. We gave up and went climbing elsewhere in the creek instead. Still plenty of new route to do if you look! I do hpe that we see a toilet soon as there is a greater need for it than a supermarket parking lot next to Supercrack. rant rant >>
What was so sacred about pulling off a paved road into a dirt parking lot (and almost losing your rear diff) vs. pulling off a paved road into a paved parking lot? I think you guys are confusing roadside climbing with wilderness. As my friend Jamie put it just because you don’t get cell service doesn’t mean it’s wilderness. It’s a working, well-grazed ranch for as far as the eye can see.
Donnelly needed a parking lot to stop the erosion creep. Nobody complained when you could park up on the gravel at Scarface. Oh, wait- gravel and dirt okay, pavement bad. What about chip-seal? Is that authentic enough? Crushed shells like in the Caribbean? Or maybe bark?
Chris I’m not saying that it was a bad idea to put in a parking area but one that accommodates 50 cars is a bit much. How about standing in someones poop when roping up, that has to suck ? It’s a bloody roadside attraction at this point so how about a frigging toilet for those who can’t deal with baggin their poop! I’ve seen a lot of em and it’s not pretty. What happened with the Scarface parking anyhow? It’s got me confused!
Unfortunately the B.L.M., “IC EA and FONSI” plan document is a pretty hard read to try to understand what they are trying to achieve. It seams to say that if we all keep pooping and cause a problem only then will they put in facilities and the start charging to use then, typical to wait until there is a big problem instead of trying to get ahead of the situation.
Agreed. I imagine there will be a shitter there soon enough. Let the busy beavers recharge and they will be back. Rolling tarmac and building a structure are probably two different work orders. A fine use of stimulus money, i’d say. As for shitting at the base of a route? whoever did that should be tied and flogged (or sent to Spain). Sure it wasn’t doggy do? I really can’t imagine anybody with any respect dropping trow right at the base of the cliff unless they had in fact scared the shit out of themselves, in which case, a shitter in the parking lot would have made little difference.
I’m hoping you are correct. I didn’t do a taste test so i can’t be sure but it must have been a very big dog! I just bagged it up ! No worse than picking up after myself or my two big dogs. Which I leave at home when I go to the creek! I think they had in fact scared the shit out of themselves, but still if there is a shitter at the base then even less of a excuse for not running down and grabbing a bag even later the same day and making a second deposit will in fact get easier don’t cha think?
Sure enough, they dug the shitter hole on Monday the 1st. I wish I could be there to drop the first one in and listen for a satisfying splat on concrete and the cheer from the masses lined up outside! As for my first view of the parking lot…I love it! Its shaped like a vodka bottle. (Why is talking about Indian Creek and talking about shit becoming more and more synonymous!?!)
The new toilet is complete and tests have proved it’s effectiveness, (two units in one building,) bring your own T.P. as supplies are limited. Parking for 60 cars does seam excessive but I guess they are planning for growth. Enough blogging, must go climbing!