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Climbing, Adventure, Gear & Choss
5 Best 5.9 Trad Routes in the US
By Dave Meyer
(All photos courtesy MountainProject.com)
I swung smoothly under the roof and punched it to the overhanging block above. A friction wrap of the block with my thigh and I was through the crux. I smiled with satisfaction, relaxed, and took a sudden lurch backward. Faced with a head-first 15 footer back into the corner, I channeled my inner orangutan and fired through to the anchors. The route was only 5.9 and was well within my range yet I nearly took the worst fall of my life. What gives? I was reminded with a quick glance at the guidebook that this route was put up in the 70’s and fell into my favorite category of climbs: 5.9 trad.
What is so great about 5.9 trad? In gyms and sport climbing areas grandparents, kindergartners, and people with the general fitness level of elephant seals routinely send 5.9. The grade was originally established in England almost 100 years ago. For a long time 5.9 was the top of the scale, and a host of routes earned the rating as the ceiling on what constituted 5.9 crept gradually higher. Finally some genius suggested adding 5.10 and we were off to the races with the numbers chase. Despite the current mania for 5.15/V16, that old school 5.9 rating remains a proud and appealing standard. Anyone who has climbed real 5.9 trad knows what I am talking about. Try some routes of the grade at the Gunks, Tahquitz, the Valley, Eldo, Cathedral, or any of the truly trad meccas out there. Better yet, check out the ultimate sandbag rating of 5.9 A2 in Canada.
There is a treasure trove of 5.9 routes established in the 50’s, 60’s, and 70s’ that is within reach of average climbers like me. They combine the perfect combination of “hard enough to be interesting/ easy enough to get the free climbing flow.” Herewith a tribute to my Personal Top Five 5.9 Trad Climbs. I am sure these will spark debate among the cognoscenti so I will add a few arbitrary parameters to further define the discussion.
1) The route is at least 4 pitches long and is rated (wait for it) 5.9
2) The route requires placing gear the whole way (ie., not Crimson Chrysalis)
3) The route actually tops out (no arbitrary ending halfway up at the fixed anchors)
4) The climbing is actually fun- bonus points for a big smile at the end of the route
Here is my list in no particular order:
1) Recompense/ Beast, Cathedral, NH. An amazing route with a strange down climb on pitch 3, a perfect exposed layback flake on the second pitch, and an awesome finishing corner. Props if you can convince your partner to lead the mossy opening pitch on this one. Finishes with the sweet walk down the paved road from the top of the cliff.
2) Regular Route, Fairview Dome, Tuolumne, CA. I know it is cliché because it is in Roper’s Fifty Classics but this one is really good. The first 4 pitches are the real business and serve up tasty Tuolumne granite crack. Extra points for the view across the high country from the top and the obtuse and improbable start to the downclimb. (Don’t stray too far right)
3) Frigid Air Buttress, Red Rocks, NV. Yeah, yeah, Epinepherine is the classic Red Rocks 5.9. Have fun in the conga line up that one. Frigid Air Buttress has no chalk, no fixed anchors, a squeeze chimney, an off-width splitter crux, and finishes on a beautiful exposed finger crack. It earns bonus points for the convoluted descent of right-at-the-knots full length rappels, downclimbs, and confusion.
4) Sykes Sickle, Rocky Mountain National Park, CO. A long approach and an obvious line on a big granite alpine face make this a standout. The hike alone is worth the price of admission, though most climbers like hiking about as much as they like regular bathing. The first pitches are pretty cruiser, though I had a fabulous off-route, terrifying slab adventure on pitch 3. The coolest moves are over the absurd roof on pitch 5. It just doesn’t seem like it should be climbable but “it is all there”.
5) North Chimney, Castleton Tower, UT. The first pitch makes the route. It is about as much moderate fun as you are allowed on a desert crack in Utah. Good gear, varied sizes, multiple great jams- don’t ever let your partner lead this pitch, you will regret it. The added bonus of the heinous ¼ inch spinner at the start of the second pitch, the unlikely cross to the other side of the tower, and an iconic summit render this an unforgettable climb.
There are hundreds of fantastic 5.9 trad routes that I have ignored, neglected, bypassed, fallen off, or just plain not climbed yet. I open the flood gates and invite the ongoing discussion of the rest of the world’s Top Five 5.9 Trad. I look forward to lengthening my tick list as the opinions trickle in.
Dave Meyer is the world’s foremost expert on the art of toproping. This is his first guest blog for SplitterChoss.com.
Interested in becoming a guest blogger? Shoot us an email!
16 Responses to 5 Best 5.9 Trad Routes in the US
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I just read the first three paragraphs and asked my husband (sitting next to me) what his favorite 5.9 trad route was. The first one that occurred to us was Fantasia (5.9 OW) at Vedauwoo. I don’t know if it’s our favorite, but it jumps to the forefront of the mind quickly… possibly because of trauma.
Then I kept reading and saw your arbitrary parameters. While Vedauwoo is a classic trad area, most of the climbs don’t meet your criteria. Very little is 4 pitches long, though most do require gear the whole way and top out. But, you’ll probably finish barfing rather than smiling. Still, it’s my favorite trad area, and full of classic, old school 5.9’s.
Kate, I appreciate the comment. Vedauwoo is a stellar example of old school trad 5.9. So many of those routes are classics (and humbling). I look forward to others suggestions/opinions/biases on my favorite grade(there are so many routes awaiting someone to champion their virtues- Steck-Salathe anyone?)
Is this splitterCHOSS or what? What about blackcanyon classics such as russian arete or escape artist? Or historical eldo routes like yellow spur, grand giraffe and handcracker. Lets throw a little loose rock into the mix and 5.9 can become real fun.
Those are all fun routes for sure, though Escape Artist and Yellow Spur are 5.10a by most recent guidebooks. And speaking of the Black, Maiden Voyage is classic, though barely 5.9, and Russian Arete is rad for how long it is at the grade, but man is that 4th pitch loose!
oh yeah, and http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/alpine_rock/capitol_peak/105760500
Surely one of the best 5.9s around has to be Outer Space on the Snow Creek Wall in Leavenworth, WA. I also remember Surf’s Up in the Bugaboos to be a lot of fun with an unbeatable view at the top.
Jason, Outer Space is a classic. The knobs on that upper wall are great. Haven’t been to the Bugaboos yet, another one to add on the list. It looks like you are writing from the Northwest. Any other classics up there we have overlooked ? (without of course revealing your super secrets)
frigid air just got bumped to the top of my must do list. That description totally turns me on.
any 5.9 nine finger crack is yummy for me <3
I can think of a few that stand out in my mind over the years: Mountaineers Route on Elephant’s Perch in Idaho (great climbing and remote mountain scenery, The Mace in Sedona (gotta do the jump back across the void!), and The Line on Lover’s Leap (just good solid fun the whole way up)!
Senecas old school 5.9 make brains soupy.
The Chockstone Chimney in Yosemite is an amazing feature- a huge exfoliation gash up by Ribbon Falls.
It’s got some Yosemite classic- golden granite corners, great views– as well as some classic Yosemite- long hike, some choss, a tree pitch.
No lines.
How bout whodunnit, tahquitz? or White Punks on dope, Igor Unchained, Needles? 5.9 trad… well I guess WPOD has 3-4 bolts but the other 2 meet your criteria.
Rob- You are right. Those Needles routes are classic. The manzanita adventures add a bit of bonus quality to those routes. WPOD is great. There are so many classics of this grade out in the world- keep them coming so I can make sure I tick as many as possible.
Yo despite grade creep that is rampant on the proj North Chimney on Castleton is 5.8 not 5.9. Why not throw up Kor-Ingalls on the same formation, meets all your requirements but is actually 5.9 and the first ascent on the tower!
Jake, I appreciate the feedback. North Chimney is actually 5.9- in Fred Knapp’s guide and 5.9 in the Karl Kelley guide to Moab. I can’t remember what Bjornstad gave it. You are right about there being a zillion great routes at the grade. You could make the list for just the Valley and have a lifetime of 5 star routes. Any thoughts on your own favorite 5.9 trad routes? I find those I like best tend to be put up before the 80’s. I am always looking to expand the tick list.