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Climbing, Adventure, Gear & Choss
Rab Boreas Pull-on Review
We were on an alpine ridge somewhere above 13000′, on a splitter Colorado summer day. Our goal was to test out a bunch of new gear from Black Diamond and Sportiva, and one of the things we were wearing was a synthetic pullover from BD. We got to talking about it, and a friend and I decided that the ideal pullover for climbing would have lightweight, stretchy material, with a hood for when the wind picks up. Something light yet versatile that would cover the bases for most of the days you’d spend out multipitch cragging. Fast forward a couple weeks and I smiled wide as I took the Rab Boreas out of the package. This was exactly what we had been talking about.
After several months of use, it’s everything I hoped it could be, and usually the first thing I grab when heading out the door. The material is a single-weave stretch nylon lycra which is very light and supple, and offers excellent stretch. It also appears to be plenty durable, as I’ve scraped up numerous Indian Creek corners wearing it and haven’t noticed any excessive wear. The shirt comes down low in the back, which means it stays tucked under your harness on those chilly, windy days, and the sleeves are a good length, with large cuffs that mean they easily roll up and stay put on your forearms when you want them out of the way.
The hood is low profile, and they recommend fitting it under a helmet, to provide that extra little bit of warmth when the wind picks up, but we also found the fabric stretchy enough that it can go over a helmet as well. And speaking of wind, the Boreas does an excellent job of blocking it while still being highly breathable. There’s a chest pocket for stowing small items like chapstick or your glasses for the next grueling offwidth pitch. And it easily stuffs into its chest pocket for when the sun is shining and you just want it clipped to your harness. Backcountry skiers should give this thing a look as well, as we found it excellent for uphill skinning.
My only small complaint would be that like most synthetics, it gets smelly after a couple uses without a wash, but not excessively so. If you’re dirtbagging it this could be an issue, but for those of us who sleep in a bed most nights and have a washing machine, it’s not a big deal. Plus, from what I read in the magazines, there aren’t really any true dirtbags left out there anyway.
I don’t know of too many other comparable products on the market, and I think for multipitch cragging, this is close to the perfect piece to take when the weather is going to be good but you want something just in case.
At a Glance Features
- Stretchy soft shell fabric wicks moisture away and blocks the wind well
- UPF 50+ due to the construction (no chemicals)
- Offers light moisture protection
- Deep venting chest zip
- Under (or over) helmet hood
- Flat lock seams for comfort and easy layering
- Larger cuffs allow you to easily roll the sleeves (perfect for crack climbing)
Look for it in online and in stores starting March 1st.
UPDATE 11/28/12: While this is still my favorite climbing top, you should know that over time it gets very stinky. After a while, no matter how much you wash it, it retains an odor. There is a new version coming soon that will eliminate this problem, and I’d wait until then to get one.
Disclaimer: The FTC wants you to know this product was provided to SplitterChoss.com for the purpose of reviewing. Like that makes a difference on how much we beat the crap out of it …
8 Responses to Rab Boreas Pull-on Review
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I just picked up one of these. The staff in the store I went to were quite, quite confused as to what the hell it is actually for. I figure at £40 I’ll give it a try and see if it fits into my system anywhere…
I envisage it as a lightweight summer outer layer and as a midlayer in winter (under a softshell like my Rab Baltoro Alpine probably). We’ll see how it goes.
I’m not sure I agree with it fitting over a helmet, though. I know the Grivel Salamander isn’t the smallest lid in the world but it’s definitely not the chunkiest either and while this will *fit* over, it lifts a lot on the shoulders. I guess it’d do in a pinch, but not ideal.
James, it’s definitely designed to go UNDER the helmet, but I found that if I want to throw it on top for a quick bit, like getting warm at a belay, it works ok. If you were going to climb with the hood up, you’d want it under for sure. Also, for comparison I have a Petzl Meteor III. Let us know how you like it, I use it all the time and can rarely be found at a cliff without it these days, regardless of the season!
Yeah, it will work over a lid. Definitely not ideal though. But at least the option is there.
Is there some way I haven’t worked out of packing it into its chest pocket? I can get it in there but not zip it up (not being a two-way zip doesn’t help). Can’t see how you’d hang it off your harness really.
I notice on Rab’s site they show Nils Nielson using his with the hood over a helmet (Black Diamond Tracer) as well. So perhaps I will give it another shot!
It should definitely seal out the elements when used like that anyway – the zip comes up over my nose! Not a bad thing!
A month or so on and I find myself living in this thing. Hiking, scrambling, climbing, dossing around town… it’s the first thing I put on almost every day. I should probably wash it again!
I’ve been using it as a base layer on occasion now that the weather has warmed up and it seems to work quite well. I’m not sure if it wicks particularly well but it dries quickly and I’ve never been particularly uncomfortable in it, so I’m happy. Oh, and I’ve used the hood over my helmet a couple of times now and yeah, it’s fine! So thanks for that advice! 🙂
I’ll be heading to Mt Etna in a week or so to do a lot of hiking out there. I’ve not been before but I expect the weather will be… ‘alpine’. So I’m thinking of this as a base layer out there too. Whatever I decide on, it’s definitely coming with me!
how do the sizings work? ive seen a guide that shows arm length for a large at 89cm, & chest at 109cm. im 184cm, bout 85kg, was thinkn of getting the large, but want to get it right first time as i live in New Zealand, & doing a return/swap will be a pain in the @#$%, & expensive. any help please?
I’d go with a large, I think it should fit just fine. I’m 187 cm and about 79kg and large is perfect.
Brendan – Saw you old blog post re Boreas – did you get the large size? What the fit like – I am 185cm and 72kg – Rob