Welcome to Paradise

I remember first hearing about Paradise Forks years ago from my coworkers at Climbing. They would return with tales of splitter basalt cracks, much like Indian Creek, sitting in a picturesque canyon in northern Arizona. It had always been on my list of places to go, but sat just far enough away to keep a trip from becoming reality with so many other places to visit.

Fast forward to this spring, when we finally got to check it out on a recent work trip to Arizona. We only had one day to spend there on our way back north, but it was well worth the visit. Driving in as dusk settled over the landscape, we passed through picturesque meadows and stands of Ponderosa pines that held a dreamlike quality in the fading light. Occasionally we’d catch a glimpse of elk herds moving through the forest, giving us a passing glance before returning to their grazing. This serene atmosphere couldn’t have been more different from the tourist trap town of Williams where we had just grabbed a quick bite to eat. It was like stepping into some kind of magical dreamland, untouched by the excesses we had just witnessed.

We arrived at the trailhead with just enough daylight left for a quick recon mission. Walking to the rim, we happened upon the only other climbers in the canyon, and chatted them up for a while. It turned out they were from Prescott, where we had just spent the last three days. They were heading down into the canyon for a quick evening climb, so we set off to see the rest of the place.

It was pretty easy to get oriented, standing on top of the cliffs. This was the Pillow Wall, there was the Davidson Wall, and the obvious Sine Wall with its distinctive curves. The Gold Wall glowed even in the failing light, the bright orange stone standing in stark contrast to the black waters gathered in the pool below.

Walking back to the car, we were excited for the next day’s adventures. As camping is no longer permitted at the trailhead, a quick drive down the road brought us to a nice campsite, nestled on the edge of a clearing among a stand of towering pines. The stars were brilliant, outlined against the dark silhouettes of the trees.

The day dawned bright, blue and warm, with a gentle breeze swaying through the Ponderosas. It felt like summer, which was a nice change from the spring weather in Colorado. (Everyone around here has a waterlogged look in their eyes that two months of mostly wet weather tends to do to a climber.) A quick breakfast and we were off.

We warmed up at the Pillow Wall to get a feel for the rock and the grades on the shorter climbs there. It felt just like Indian Creek, although the stone was very smooth, and very polished in places. After a few routes, we headed over to the Prow to check out some of the longer climbs.

This is what we had come for, long cracks on perfect stone. We sampled a few of the classics, which were absolutely phenomenal. One thing that quickly became apparent was that you had to work a little harder for the jams here, as unlike in the Creek, there was zero friction between your skin and the smooth rock. It made things feel a little more strenuous for a given size, and Tracy found that taping was nice, not as protection, but to add some friction. Unfortunately, we had only brought enough tape for her, so I didn’t have that advantage. It was a bit strange to jam a green camalot crack, without tape, and not have a single gobie afterwards. That certainly wouldn’t have been the case at IC.

A couple other thoughts on the area. The grades were stout, as they are known to be, and certainly stiffer than those found at the Creek. Not a big deal, as long as you know that going into it. And the climbs were steep! Probably even more so than your average Creek pitch, these routes were all dead vertical at the least. Also, it’s a very top rope friendly area, as you approach from above, and can easily sling some trees or set some gear anchors and then rap down to the base. It also seemed like it would be a great spot for families, with a short approach, mellow hang on top of the cliff, and the ability to simply lower in and climb back out if you so desired. Kind of like the crack version of the Ouray Ice Park.

Unfortunately, the day waned too quickly, and life called us north, back to the responsibilities that lie there. We reluctantly left the beautiful canyon, knowing we’d be back again sometime, hopefully with a few more days to spend exploring the cracks and corners of this wonderful place.

Paradise indeed.