Five Ten first unveiled the Quantums at last summer’s trade show to a resounding chorus of ooh’s and ahh’s. The vibrant purple brought back fond memories of the old Anasazi “Pinks,” and in fact they were being marketed as a downturned version of that shoe. The Pink’s were one of the few Five Ten’s I really liked, but sadly my pair has succumbed to age and abuse, so I was eager to give these new kicks a test drive.
Slipping them on, the fit is excellent, with no dead spaces, and my toes are packed into the front without feeling crammed. The downturn shape provides excellent grabbing power on overhanging terrain, and hasn’t flattened out, unlike some aggressive shoes on the market. The shape of the toe allows you to be incredibly precise, zeroing on small holds with ease. The heel cup feels like it’s suctioned on to your foot, and no amount of overly aggressive heel hooking will get it to budge.
The Quantums excel at steep climbing, regardless of the rock type. On granite, I found they could stand on tiny edges with ease. On limestone, they stick to every little bump, and toe in on pockets quite nicely. Sandstone might as well just give up before their awesome sticking power. And even with the downturn they can smear just fine. (I think, I’m not much for smearing, so who knows if I’m even doing it right.)
Really my only complaint with this shoe is the size, as I got them the same as my street shoe, and I really should have gone a half size up, which would have been a little more comfortable but still plenty performance oriented. The downturn shape is very aggressive, and they barely stretch at all, which packs your foot tightly into the space.
Bottom line, this is a bad ass shoe that would be a valuable addition to any sport climber’s quiver. If you need further proof, I leave you with a recent conversation about them:
“Hey, do you have those shoes?”
“The ninja slippers?”
“Yeah, they should have called them that. Way cooler.”
“I don’t even know what they are called, that’s just what they feel like.”
For more info or to purchase visit the Five Ten website.
Hayden Carpenter and Tom Bohanon recently repeated an obscure ice climb on the south side of Mt Sopris. Given a brief mention in Jack Robert’s ice guide, Bulldog Creek Walk is described as being 100 meters of WI 4. What they found was seven pitches of ice in a remote setting that makes for one […]
Only downside: The smallest size they make is a men’s six. It would be nice if Five Ten would consider making a few smaller sizes. I tried a pair of 6s, hoping they’d fit, and had to send them back. Bummed. They seemed like they would’ve been amazing to climb in.
Thanks for the review! I’m in the market for some new kicks and might branch out from the Anasazi’s. Decisions, decisions…
So far I really like this shoe. I went with my street shoe size and that is working out great.
If you sized up, I think this could be a good long route shoe. The toe is great for getting good friction in small corners, etc.
Not a splitter crack shoe or slab shoe for sure, but for everything else it seems great.
Hands down now my favorite shoe. A I stated before not for Indian Creek but I bet they would be sweet in most other terrain.
I have been using them in rifle and Indy pass and they are performing great. The toe gets on just about anything. It also is great for rand smears and cramming in small corners, etc..