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Climbing, Adventure, Gear & Choss
Local Beta – Friends & Family Wall
I wish I could say the new guidebook will be out any day now, but unfortunately that’s not the case. Maybe because the previous edition came together so quickly, this one is falling into the usual guidebook trap of repeatedly pushing back the deadline.
In order to give a glimpse of what’s coming, I’m hoping to offer up some “teasers” here in the next couple of months. First up is an old area that not many people have known about. The Redstein crag sits above the town of Redstone, and hosts around 60 pitches, including several 5.14 projects.
The Friends & Family Wall, on the lower portion of the crag, is home to 7 pitches from 5.8 to 5.10a. The routes are about 70 feet long, and the hang is excellent, with a nice, flat base, and stunning views of the Crystal River Valley. The routes are characterized by jugs down low leading to techy slab climbing above.
Download the Friends & Family Wall topo (PDF)
7 Responses to Local Beta – Friends & Family Wall
Bulldog Creek Dog Walk (IV WI 4+)
Hayden Carpenter and Tom Bohanon recently repeated an obscure ice climb on the south side of Mt Sopris. Given a brief mention in Jack Robert’s ice guide, Bulldog Creek Walk is described as being 100 meters of WI 4. What they found was seven pitches of ice in a remote setting that makes for one […]
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Splitterchoss is working!!! Went up today and met Chris and Andy from Basalt heading up to the crag. The trail still needs some work but the routes are ready to go. Happy moderate climbing and enjoy it.
-Dave
Dave, his son & friends showed us the true meaning of the Friends & Family Wall with a special tour from the parking area to the anchors. We thoroughly enjoyed hanging out with them & checking out this small pearl of well-bolted, user friendly climbing for mere mortals. Thanks for the work & effort in sprucing up this accessible crag & sharing it with the climbing community.
Would love beta on how to get to the crag from Redstone or to hear from anyone looking for a climbing partner to visit with. Dave or BJ, hook a brother up?
Seth,
Busy this week. Give me a call- I would love to give you a quick tour. The beta for getting up there is pretty straightforward. A fun little zone.
Thanks guys for this update. I look forward to the new guide. Actually, I checked out the crag a couple weeks ago and was very satisfied. All of the routes were really fun, and the pebble pinching/slabbing felt really good after a spring of pup tent and now rifle.
By the way, I noticed some bolts on the left side where there is a big right facing book. I didn’t have any gear with me or I would have tried it. Looked to be about 9/10ish. Any word on the grade? and are there chain anchors at the top? I couldn’t see. Thanks again.
I think that route you saw on the left is a mixed climb from the winter but am not sure exactly where you were looking. Glad you enjoyed the crag. There is another route to the right of Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster- it is called Middle School Monkey 10b (considerably harder if you are under 6′) Beta for shorter folks seems more 10dish but am interested what others think.
PS Please, please, please, make Hogwarts your next update!