Patagonia Alpine Houdini Jacket Review

It was one of those days when it’s hard to get a good read on the weather. We were above 12,000′ on the Northeast Ridge of Pyramid Peak (14,026′) and there were clouds swirling all around. The forecast was for showers later in the day, but instead of the usual bluebird skies that build with obvious thunderheads, the day had an unsettled feel to it from the beginning. Once we gained the ridge proper, the wind picked up and the humidity gave the air an extra bite. A perfect place to be taking the new Patagonia Alpine Houdini for a spin.

The Alpine Houdini is a tougher, waterproof version of the popular lightweight pullover that Patagonia has been offering for years. I remember when it first came out, I had one and loved it for summer mountaineering where I just needed something to cut the wind and wasn’t concerned about weatherproofness. However, I do believe it’s nice to have as much functionality in a piece as possible, and the folks at Patagonia may have created the ultimate lightweight, weatherproof jacket.

Weighing in at a scant 6.6 oz, you don’t notice it when it’s in your pack or clipped to your harness, a task made simple by the chest pocket it stuffs into. That’s the only pocket you’ll find and it’s just big enough to stash some small items like chapstick or keys. The fit is designed to be worn over some layers, and I’ve actually been wearing a medium, even though I typically wear large in Patagonia jackets. Downsizing offers a more slim alternative, without the sleeves being too short, but I’d go with a large if I was going to be using it in the winter, to allow for more layers underneath.

The elastic in the the sleeves keeps them in place, and if you need to slide them up for some jamming, they’ll stay put on your forearms. The hood easily fits over a climbing helmet, helping to seal out the elements and keep you dry and toasty. I recently wore the jacket on a warm day of ice climbing, when the beating sun made conditions pretty wet, but it was too warm to have on a more burly hard shell. It kept the not-so-frozen waterfall from getting me wet, and allowed good freedom of movement for climbing. On the trip up Pyramid, it breathed just fine, though like most lightweight hard shells, more high output activities would likely bump up against the limit of what it could handle Also, I can’t speak to the durability, as I’ve not done anything scrappy with it on. Like any lighter-weight jacket, this would be my main concern.

Back on Pyramid, we continued on up the peak, with a wary eye on the conditions around us. The swirling clouds and mist lent a surreal feel to the towers of choss we were navigating around. We arrived on the summit just after a massive group had left, and had a moment of quiet serenity that, for me, is a major reason why I climb mountains. The rest of the day went smooth, and back in the parking lot we celebrated an excellent climb of this fantastic peak.

Retail on the Patagonia Alpine Houdini is $199, it’s available in men’s and women’s versions, more information and specs can be found on Patagonia’s website.

Disclaimer: Wait! Before you go handing over your credit card number, ask yourself, do you really need to buy more new stuff? If so, this product is worth a look. In the spirit of full disclosure, it was provided to SplitterChoss.com for the purpose of reviewing. Don’t worry, though, our integrity can’t be bought!