Vertical Mind Book Review

Why can some climbers keep it together on run out climbing? Why do other people quickly grab the draw on a challenging sport route? Why do some hesitate and bail on big, intimidating climbs? Why are there those that climb obsessively for years to suddenly give it up and walk away?

As a runner in college, I was first exposed to the power of mental training. One of my  teammates, Tim Suchan, a 7’ 5” Olympic Trials qualifying high jumper, surprised me one evening at dinner when he told me he was going to pursue graduate work in sports psychology. I couldn’t believe there was such a thing. It sounded like glorified basket weaving.

The following semester I stepped into the classroom of Psycho-Social Aspects of Physical Activity and Sport, a required class as part of my minor in coaching (yes, you can minor in coaching and it’s not all basket weaving). There, I was fascinated by what I learned about the power of the mind and the effect of mental training in sports.

I quickly realized that in my time as a runner I had put a lot of effort into physical training and warm-ups before a competition, but paid almost no attention to my mind. Putting those mental practices into my routine quickly reaped huge benefit.

Years later, when Arno Ilgner published The Rock Warrior’s Way, I read it with rapt attention to see the powerful role the mind plays in climbing.

Now, Don McGrath and Jeff Ellison add to the conversation with Vertical Mind; Psychological Approaches for Optimal Rock Climbing, published by Sharp End.

Don is an energetic and accomplished individual with PhD credentials and an engineering director by day. He also runs the website masterrockclimber.com and previously published 50 Athletes Over 50.

Jeff is a PhD professor of psychology at Adams State University. Both men have years of experience and if you’re a regular at Rifle, then chances are you’ve seen them cranking hard.

A look at their backgrounds is telling for what separates this book from The Rock Warrior’s Way, and where it may resonate with a different audience. Vertical Mind focuses on the brain and neuroscience research, while The Rock Warrior’s Way focuses on metaphysics and the likes of Carlos Castenada. While both have great value, I think Vertical Mind may add to the conversation about mental training and speak to a new audience.

One of the first things that jumped out at me was Vertical Mind’s methodical approach to coaching the reader through mental training. From beginning to end, the book contains exercises and questions that ask the reader to think about themselves as climbers, reflect on their experiences, and consider the steps to put into place.

Vertical Mind thoroughly addresses a host of issues related to the mental aspect of climbing, such as fear, failure, motivation and performance. While relying on science, the book doesn’t get bogged down in “science talk” and instead offers clear, simple drills and tactics to help address and improve performance. For the nerdy types, an extensive reference list is provided at the end for extra credit reading.

I particularly enjoyed the discussion about how our brains work in an effort to understand how mental training can have an impact on physical performance. I also appreciated the use of acronyms and other teaching tools to help guide readers through their own personal process.

You can tell Don and Jeff put a lot of thought and research into the book. Interviews with dozens of accomplished climbers help provide some of the foundation of the book while Don’s previous book about athletes over 50 comes out beautifully in an early chapter about fun and motivation.

It’s now April and the climbing season is getting into full swing. If you’ve got goals for the year, I highly recommend adding Vertical Mind to the quiver of tools and techniques that you’ll need to employ to tick off the big ones. Crushing the hangboard can only get you so far, time to get on the sharp end and be sharp in mind. Happy climbing!

Retail is $24.95, more info on the Sharp End website.

Disclaimer: Wait! Before you go handing over your credit card number, ask yourself, do you really need to buy more new stuff? If so, this product is worth a look. In the spirit of full disclosure, it was provided to SplitterChoss.com for the purpose of reviewing. Don’t worry, though, our integrity can’t be bought!