Mammut Eternity Dry 9.8 Rope Review

Mammut completely revamped their rope line this year, incorporating varying levels of dry treatments designed to comply with the new UIAA dry-treated rope standards. In the past, companies could claim a rope was dry, without having to conform to any kind of standard. This meant that some “dry” ropes in fact didn’t perform any better than regular ones when looking at how much water they absorbed. The new test and certification means there is now a common standard by which all dry ropes can be measured, which ultimately benefits the consumer and ensures we are getting what the packaging says we are getting.

From the UIAA: “To pass the test at a certified laboratory, the amount of absorbed water must not be greater than 5% of the rope’s weight. For comparison, a non-treated rope absorbs around 50% of water in this test, and ropes labelled as “dry” but lacking adequate treatments can absorb between 20% and 40% of water.”

While some rope manufacturers/retailers would like you to think you need a dry rope for everything you do, Mammut realizes different climbers have different needs and now offers three categories of ropes, Classic, Protect and Dry. “Classic” ropes have no special treatment, and are suitable for those climbing in dry conditions, or who are on a budget and just want a rope for everyday use that won’t break the bank. “Protect” ropes feature a sheath treatment that increases abrasion resistance by 40% over the “Classic” category ropes. And for those who are taking their ropes into the most demanding conditions, their “Dry” ropes utilize a special treatment on the core and sheath, which means 50% more abrasion resistance, and they only absorb 1% of their weight in water.

I got a sample of the Eternity DRY version to test in the spring, and it’s been my workhorse cord all year. While I generally prefer skinnier ropes, the 9.8 is the perfect size for choss missions, trad routes and any other situation where the rope is going to get beat up. For the new guidebook I’m working on, I spent a bunch of time at a very chossy and sharp area close to home. Without hesitation I brought the Eternity every time, which gave me peace of mind even when the stone I was climbing on didn’t.

At this point, it has started to feel kind of thick for a 9.8, but otherwise is in great shape. It’ll be my ice climbing rope this winter, and I expect to get several seasons out of it before it’s time to retire it to the basement.

Props to Mammut for creating a range of ropes to choose from, giving consumers more options than they had before, and the ability to tailor their rope to the kind of climbing they do most. If you are looking for one of the most durable ropes on the market, be sure to check out the Eternity Dry.

Retail: $229.95 (60m)
The cost changes with each level of protection, a 60m Eternity Classic is $149.95, Protect is $189.95.
Weight: 64g/m
Available lengths: 60m, 70m
Impact force: 8.8kn
More info and specs available here.

Disclaimer: Wait! Before you go handing over your credit card number, ask yourself, do you really need to buy more new stuff? If so, this product is worth a look. In the spirit of full disclosure, it was provided to SplitterChoss.com for the purpose of reviewing. Don’t worry, though, our integrity can’t be bought!