Letter to the Newbs

After spending some time in Red Rocks this spring, I saw a lot of newer climbers struggling to find crags, climbs, etc. And while newbs are often the target of criticism by more experienced climbers, I thought I send some encouragement out to those who are just getting started.

Dear newbs,

Welcome to rock climbing! It’s an incredible sport and can become an equally amazing lifestyle should you decide to stick with it. In the beginning, you probably have more stoke than you know what to do with, but very little skill or experience. I know this can be a very exciting but confusing time, so here are a few words of encouragement as you start on this incredible journey to become, real mature, rock climbers.

You will get better at finding the climbs you are looking for

At first, this can be a real challenge and it might feel impossible sometimes to locate the crag you want to go to, especially at places like Red Rocks or City of Rocks. But you’ll get better at reading maps, reading the terrain, getting a sense of where people have traveled before you. This will go from being extremely stressful to something you take for granted. Of course you’ll find the cliff you are looking for, why wouldn’t you?

You will get lots of climbing in

In the beginning, doing four climbs in a day will seem like a massive accomplishment. But someday, four climbs will be your warm up routine before trying something harder. How will you get to this mythical place? Each time you go out, do one more pitch than you think you have time (or the energy) for. You need mileage, more than anything else, and so even if it’s something really easy for you, just do it, to get that crucial time of movement over stone.

Systems will become second nature

You’ll go from wondering if you did anything wrong to knowing that you have it set up perfectly, whether it’s cleaning a sport climb or setting up an anchor on a multipitch route. The more you do it, the more confident you will be. Take your time at first, speed will come later, and always practice anything new on the ground before going up into a situation where making a mistake could be disastrous.

You have your whole life to get better

When I was in my early twenties, I had a string of frustrating injuries that had me thinking “If only I could stay healthy, I could send this or do that,” and it felt like my “best” years were slipping away. The truth is, you have your whole life to get better at rock climbing, and many people are sending their hardest routes in their 40’s and 50’s. Take your time, treat your body well, listen to it when it’s tired, and you will have endless days of enjoyment ahead of you.

You don’t know everything, go find a mentor

Chances are, if you took a class or went out a couple times with some friends you know just enough to be dangerous to yourself. Continue to seek out the guidance of more experienced climbers. Most will be genuinely happy to help steer you in a safe direction. Sometimes there’s a sense that to ask for help means showing weakness, or that the cool kids won’t talk to you, but I can guarantee you going splat at a crowded cliff is much more of a faux paux then asking someone to go over the basics of cleaning a sport climb to refresh your memory.

Be curious, embrace a learning mindset, there is so much you don’t know yet! Check your knot. Use your GriGri like Petzl tells you to. Stand under the lead climber, don’t sit on your ass, this isn’t chess, it’s rock climbing! Tie a knot in the end of your rope. Make sure you see what you think you see when cleaning an anchor. Ask questions, take a class, hire a guide, learn, improve, HAVE FUN! This is a lifelong pursuit, and I hope you get to do it for your entire life!