It’s My Creation

I love the thrill of finding new areas, and of creating new lines. There’s already a lot of places to climb on the Western Slope, but there are even more cool places out there waiting to be opened up, and there’s something magical about seeing a crag come together. Approach trails get dialed in, warm-ups established, cool-looking features investigated. Developing crags is also a way for me to give back to the community that’s given me so much, to create more venues for pursuing our sport. The downside is that it’s a lot of work, and it takes away from time to just go climbing. Last year, I strove for a balance of trying to get out to a new area one day per week, and splitting the rest of my time between training in the gym and climbing outdoors. It’s hard to do it all, and even harder to do it all well.

As most folks know, bolting is not climbing, and while it’s very physical, it does not make you a better climber (unless you are John VanNostrand, somehow he does it all). I could certainly take my climbing to a higher level if I just focused on climbing, but something keeps me in the bolting game. Last October, I got to spend a day climbing on five new lines at a new, and for now, secret, area. I had spent numerous days getting these lines established, and it was so fun to see everything come together and to work out the moves that up to that point I’d only played with hanging on a rope. Each climb was worthwhile, and I saved what I thought would be the hardest line for last. And what a beauty it was, maybe one of my finest creations ever. A sustained line that builds to engaging, cruxy climbing past the last two bolts. Even in its fresh state, my partner for the day thought it was four stars and one of the better lines he’d climbed recently. And that satisfaction of seeing how well the line came together, knowing what it took to make it into a climb, that is what keeps me coming back.

The exploration, the voyage into the unknown that brings to light new vertical adventures, each different than the last. Opening up new zones, getting to hang out in new places. In fact, for me, one of the best things about the climbing on the Western Slope is that generally, the hangs are four stars. Whether it’s high on a mountainside, or down in an idyllic limestone valley, we get to climb in some pretty spectacular spots. And usually, the climbing is pretty good too.

Sure, I would climb harder if I took bolting out of my life. But I would definitely feel like I was missing something, something that brings deep joy and satisfaction, and that at this point I think will always be an important part of my identity as a climber.

As for that new area? It’s not ready yet, but trust me, you’ll be stoked when it is!