Summer 2019 Outdoor Retailer Climbing Gear

This summer’s trip to the Outdoor Retailer show was a quick one, but I was able to check out some fun new gear, including several shoes that I’m excited to try out. Also of note is that companies like Adidas and Edelrid are pushing hard in the environmental sustainability department, acknowledging that we all need to play a part in turning things around to help save the planet. Below are the highlights of what I saw, post any questions in the comments and I’ll try to answer as best I can. Enjoy this preview of next summer’s gear!

Black Diamond

The new Z4 Camalots were the highlight here, which look to combine the best aspects of the C3s and X4s (which are both now out of production). The Z4s feature a unique stem that is rigid while placing the unit but flexes when loaded which should reduce the walking that can occur with rigid-stemmed cams. The head width is very small, I was told it’s equal to the C3s, but with four cams. And the lobes are sandblasted, which is supposed to result in better holding power. Retail will be $69.95 and they are also available in an offset version.

The Vision helmet, EPP and EPS foam topped with a polycarbonate shell, is the most durable foam lid in the BD line up. Weighs 210 grams.

The airNet harness uses an innovative Dyneema construction to create a super light (8.3 oz) harness meant for high-end sport climbing and competitions. The airNet structure reduces pressure points and distributes the load evenly across the “net.” It’ll be really interesting to try this out, to see how the comfort stacks up. It also uses innovative construction for the belay loop, which uses a single piece of material with bartacking like a traditional loop. $160.

Scarpa

The Scarpa Booster is a redesign of the Booster S with a couple of key changes. It features a new last designed to improve comfort without sacrificing performance. Also, the seamless toe box uses Alcantara, a synthetic material that conforms to the shape of the user’s toe for a precise fit. The Pressure Absorbing Heel creates a soft, form-fitting heel pocket. And the midsole has an ultra-thin flexan inset to add support without sacrificing sensitivity. $189.

The Veloce is a soft shoe aimed at a wider range of users than Scarpa’s high-end soft shoe offerings (Furia S, Drago and Chimera). Acknowledging that many indoor climbers, even beginners, enjoy the comfort of a softer shoe, the Veloce aims to meet them where they are at, with features that aren’t quite as specialized as their other super soft offerings. The rubber is a unique blend developed by Scarpa to be sticky and durable for indoor use. Retail will be $139, which is quite a bit cheaper than most of the other soft shoes out there.

La Sportiva

Speaking of ultra-soft shoes, Scarpa has been dominating the market, but Sportiva is looking to change that with the new Theory. The single strap slipper uses a combo of No-Edge technology on the sides and standard edge construction at the toe. The rubber also decreases in thickness from 3.5mm to 2mm to keep the shoe as light as possible. This is aimed at comp climbers and those who want as little between their feet and the rock as possible. Available in men’s and women’s versions. $190.

The Solution Comp upgrades the Solution with a softer heel aimed at better heel hooking for boulderers and more rubber on the toe for better toe hooking. Available in men’s and women’s versions. $185.

And the Cobra 4:99 is designed for the speed climbers out there, gunning for the sub-5 second time in the Olympics. It’s a pared down version of the Cobra with a ½ sole of XS Grip2 rubber weighing a scant 160g. $150.

Patagonia

Patagonia has a new Ascentionist pack that is highly customizable, with an improved design to keep weight over the lumbar spine. Available in 35L ($149) and 55L ($169) versions.

Adidas / Five Ten

Adidas continues to push the edge of environmental sustainability. They are putting out the first fully recyclable shoe in 2020, becoming the first brand to do so. And by 2024, they have committed to using 0% virgin plastic in any of their products. That’s huge for a company of their size. A cool layer I saw here was the Agravic Rain, a 3 layer seam taped jacket for $125 that was incredibly light. On the Five Ten side, there is the Kirigami, a new entry-level shoe and redesigned Hiangle. Also, the Kirigami comes in a kids version that performs well even if their foot doesn’t fill the whole space, leaving room for growth without having to buy a new pair of shoes every six months.

Edelrid

Edelrid Swift Protect 8.9 uses a new manufacturing process that weaves aramid into the sheath. Aramid is heat resistant and extremely strong, which gives improved durability and cut resistance. While there is no universal standard for rope cutting resistance, in tests developed and performed by Edelrid, the 8.9 Protect exhibited the same cut resistance as a 10mm rope. The technology needed to weave the static aramid fibers into a dynamic rope took years to develop but has the potential to substantially change the way ropes are manufactured. One of the biggest issues with skinny ropes has been their lack of durability so this could be a truly new direction for rope manufacturers. (It’s also worth noting over half their harnesses are bluesign certified.)

Metolius

Metolius had some cool new training products, at prices that should make them very attractive. The Light Rail is a portable hangboard for training on the go or warming up at the crag. At $29.95 it’s significantly cheaper than other offerings out there. They also have Wood Rock Rings, at $34.95 and the new Prime Rib, a simple wooden hangboard for $49.95.

A huge thanks to everyone who I met with at all these companies!