Winter Outdoor Retailer 2020 Climbing Report

I made a quick trip down to the Winter OR + Snow show in Denver for its last day. I hadn’t been to the Winter Show in a couple of years, and one thing became immediately apparent: there are very few climbing brands attending this show anymore. It always used to be more focused on winter sports, but since it became the Outdoor + Snow show, it appears most of the climbing retailers are only going to the summer show. That being said, there weren’t many brands to check out, but here’s a quick look at some fun new gear that’s coming out in fall of 2020.

Patagonia

The DAS Parka, gone for three seasons, is back. Weighing 19.5 ounces, it uses 133 grams of Primaloft Gold insulation Eco. Compressibility was a big concern for the redesign, as no one wants a giant belay parka that takes up most of their pack. Also, it features a plastic zipper for improved functionality in cold conditions. Retail is $499.

They also had the DAS Light Hoody, basically the Micro Puff with a liner, and 25% warmer than that jacket, with improved durability as well. It weighs 11 ounces and retail is $379.

In a somewhat odd departure from the norm, they were also showcasing what they are calling their Untethered Kit, which includes a wood burning stove, a cook pot, a stripped down pack (Middle Fork Pack), and super light sleeping bag (creatively called, the Lightweight Sleeping Bag, 11 oz). Promoting getting out and away from it all as simply as possible, this will probably appeal to the minimalists out there. It’s an idea that apparently Yvonne Chouinard has been tinkering with for ten years, and it’ll be interesting to see how it is received by the public. You can buy all the items together or separately.

La Sportiva

A major trend among the shoe companies the last couple of years has been geared toward putting out models that will appeal to the ever-growing gym climber segment of the sport. In that vein, Sportiva has two new entry-level shoes, the Zenit and the Aragon. The Zenit ($129) is aimed at intermediate climbers, with a 5mm sole for longevity in the gym environment. The Aragon is $99, a perfect first shoe for those new to the sport.

Scarpa

The Drago is a great shoe, but a little too high volume for my narrow low profile feet. Thankfully, there must be others out there like me because the Drago LV, coming out in the fall, is a lower volume version of the popular slipper. And unlike some low volume models, it has a full size range, which I’m thrilled about for my size 45 feet. The shoe is everything you love in the regular model, paired with a new heel, what they call the Pressure Absorbing Fit (PAF), designed to reduce pressure on the heel without sacrificing performance.

They’ve also got a women’s Instinct Lace, which also features the new PAF heel.

And lastly, again going after the more entry-level climbers, the Reflex V is an $89 shoe with stylings that reminded me of the Tron movies for some reason.

Five Ten

The Hiangle Pro is one of the few truly innovative ideas I’ve seen in quite some time. Similar to the La Sportiva No Edge technology, it looks to address the more modern style of competition climbing and bouldering on compression features and difficult smears. The edge has a classic shape at the toe, and then wraps around on to the top of the shoe for the inside edge, leaving a highly stick, smearable surface. Also, the heel is one piece, designed to glom on to heel hooks like no other shoe before it. It’s made from 15 separate pieces, with a TPU insert across the toe for rigidity on edges. It will debut in Europe and Japan, and then follow in the States.

Black Diamond

Only a few small things here, as most of their focus was on the snow sports aspect of their business. There is a new Crack Glove ($39.95), which they tried to keep as thin as possible, addressing a common complaint with these new school crack tools. It’ll be interesting to see how they hold up. There are also four new ice climbing gloves, with a seamless pinky for improved comfort hanging off of leashless tools where much of the weight ends up on your little finger. Also some new travel duffels that look nice, though I’m skeptical about anything that doesn’t have wheels these days.

Outdoor Research

The Archangel Jacket ($699) is their new winter climbing ensemble, and among the first products to feature the newest iteration of Gore-Tex Pro fabric. Utilizing a combination of stretch panels and more breathable sections, it seeks to offer the highest level of breathability, durability and freedom of movement.

Thank you to all who took the time to meet with me and show me the goods!