Maroon Bells Traverse

The finest choss in the Elks? Perhaps. This “classic” ridge connects the two iconic Bells via low end 5th class climbing with fantastic exposure. I’d been up on both Bells several times before via a variety of routes, but I’d never climbed the trail up South, so my friend Lynn and I decided to check it out and then traverse over to North. I’d heard the slog up South was lame, and the guidebook described it as 2800′ of vertical gain in a mile, so we were expecting a grunt. And a grunt it was. Just before the ridge we both looked at each other and knew neither was having much fun, but soon that was behind us. Once on the ridge, we weaved in and out of jagged towers, making our way up one last lame gully and then up to the top of South Maroon. Most of the snow that was so prevalent a month ago is just lingering patches now, and the Elks are clothed with their green summer mantle. The sky was clear and the views fantastic, as always.

After a short time on top, we began descending to the notch that sits at the top of the Bell Cord Couloir, and marks the start of the connecting ridge between the two peaks. The descent off the top is somewhat engaging, as you make your way down steep, ball bearing covered slabs with big exposure all around. From the notch, the fun really begins. The guidebooks say this can be done at 4th class, but I’ve always found the most aesthetic and fun line is somewhere in the low 5th class range, with massive exposure in some spots. Fortunately, the rock is quite good on the steep spots and the climbing is fun. For the most part the route finding is straightforward, and the ridge is a really incredible place to explore.

Soon we were making our way up the final bit to the summit of North Maroon. Some snacks, a little rest and then we headed down the steep descent. By the time we got back on the trail, we were psyched not to have any more talus or steeps to deal with, it gets a little tedious at times. With a few 4th class sections, its not hard, but mentally taxing in that you have to pay attention to what you are doing almost the whole way down. A fall wouldn’t be very fun.

The rest of the day went quick, and after a glance back at where we had been a few hours earlier, we headed home, fully satisfied with another great day in the mountains.

One Response to Maroon Bells Traverse

  1. Fair warning, unless you want to slog up a steep and loose dirt trail I would not do the S Ridge route on S. Maroon. It would definitely be best to climb N. Maroon and go over via the ridge to South and then back. Better yet, climb the Bell Chord earlier in the season.

    As the one picture attests, there is some major exposure at certain points:)

    Lynn August 17, 2008 at 10:37 pm
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