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Climbing, Adventure, Gear & Choss
Five Ten Grandstone Review
The perfect Indian Creek shoe is an elusive thing. You want it to be comfortable, so when your jamming your toes into cracks the pain is minimized as much as possible, but not so sloppy that you can’t milk the occasional foot hold for all it’s worth. You also want them to be durable, because they are going to take a serious beating if you’re spending any significant amount of time there. The new Five Ten Grandstone combines all these things into what I think is pretty close to the perfect crack climbing shoe.
At first glance, these look like they were designed for some kind of medieval warfare, which I guess could be an adequate description of climbing in the Creek sometimes. With extra rubber covering the toe box, and high tops that cover your ankle, these things look like they can take the worst that climbing can dish out. And at first I had to wonder, is all this necessary? I mean when you hold it for the first time, it seems like a bit much. After some serious time in Indian Creek, however, this is my new favorite shoe for sandstone splitters.
Even though my toes don’t lie completely flat, I’ve found these to be as comfortable as the Mythos I used to wear. Part of this I attribute to the rubber on the toe, which seems to add to the comfort when jamming in cracks. Unlike the Mythos, however, I can also stand on small edges confidently, which is a welcome relief after a stretch of relentless jamming. Also, the high tops keep your ankles protected nicely, even when struggling up the wide stuff. Speaking of which, I’ve found that this shoe really shines on 2” cracks and larger. It’s adequate for 1.5” cracks, but for that size and smaller most folks will prefer something a little more aggressive like the trusted Five Ten Moccasym. I wear an 11.5 street shoe and got these in a 43.5, and this size has proven to be the perfect balance of comfort and precision that I couldn’t be happier with. For climbing on granite, I’d probably go another half size down to get a more precision oriented fit.
Initially the shoe was fairly stiff, but after breaking in, I found it performed well, even on slabby face climbs where a stiffer shoe just can’t provide the sensitivity I want. The fit at first felt inconsistent, but again after a break in period, it feels pretty good and I have no complaints. So far my only gripe is that because it’s such a high top, I have to undo the laces from the first grommet to get it on my foot. It’s not a big deal, but a minor inconvenience each time you lace up.
I used to swear by the La Sportiva Mythos for desert climbing, but my love affair with them has sadly come to an end. They have serious durability issues with the laces and the shoe coming apart after prolonged use on splitter cracks. Thankfully the Five Ten Grandstone has taken its place as my Indian Creek shoe of choice.
Disclaimer: This product was provided to SplitterChoss.com for the purpose of reviewing.
9 Responses to Five Ten Grandstone Review
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How do these compare to the LaSportiva TC Pro?
Eric, I don’t feel like I can really compare the two all that well, as I have them sized for different things, but here are a few thoughts. My TC’s are performance tight. I tend to use them on techy climbs with small foot holds, but I have also used them a fair bit in the desert. I would want the TC’s in a larger size if they were my dedicated Creek shoe. They also don’t protect your ankles as well.
As for the Grandstone’s, I can’t really speak to how they climb on techy routes since they are a little bigger than I’d like for that, and I’ve used them exclusively in the desert so far. Based on what I’ve seen though, it does seem like they do a pretty darn good job face climbing. For how comfy they are, they have surprised me at how well I can edge with them. They are definitely a bulkier shoe though, for what that’s worth.
I’ll be using them on other rock types in the near future, and at some point will update this review with some further thoughts on the matter.
Ah, thanks for the reply. I’m looking to replace my Mythos as well and have been looking at both of these shoes, so this is all pertinent info.
Any idea how these compare to the discontinued 5.10 Piton?
How have these shoes been holding up for you so far? I’m thinking about grabbing a pair of these. Also, mind if I ask what size TC Pro you wear so I can compare? Trying to get some accurate sizing info since my local shops don’t seem to have these.
Nice review by the way.
I have just ordered a pair of these, and I am wondering if I got the right size. I have an 8 street shoe, where a 7 evolve that is tight and fits nice after break in, and also I have a pair of 8.5 dragons from five ten. And a 7 five ten coyote. The coyote causes my toes to curl, no dead space, with plenty of room to stretch and is brand new. What I am not sure about is if my foot swells during a multi-pitch climb, will this cause major discomfort. I have only sport climbed with minimal experience in trad. However, I am going to be living in moab and climbing indian creek mostly every weekend. Did you buy a half size up for complete comfort on an all day climb?
Kevin, what size did you get? Mine are about a full size down from my street shoe, which I found to be perfect for the Creek/long trad.
BJ,
Great review. I am about to order these and also wear an 11/11.5 street shoe. Out of curiosity what US size is the 43.5? I work at the City of Rocks in southern Idaho and have TC Pros for hard stuff, and love em. My girlfriend and I are probably moving to Vegas for the winter. I was buying these for offwidth, hand cracks and maybe easy all day stuff. Any size recomendation?
Best,
Adam
Hey Adam,
Mine are US 11, which is about right. If I wanted them just for the Creek, I might even go a half size up to get my toes flatter, but for Red Rocks, where there are many face holds, they would be perfect. Hope that helps!