I have a new secret weapon in the fight against gravity: a pair of orange La Sportiva slippers called the Pythons. A year and a half ago, I had an epiphany that I had no idea how to use my feet. Sure, I stood on foot holds, but I became acutely aware of the fact that my upper body was mostly trying to drag my lower along. I immediately set to work on changing this, though it’s no short task to correct more than a decade worth of bad technique. Still, with perseverance, I’ve now gotten to the point that I at least know how I’m supposed to initiate movement with my lower body, even if my execution isn’t always optimal.
With that in mind, I’ve given a lot more thought to what I’m wearing on my feet these days. Stiff shoes have generally fallen off the map, as I want to be able to feel what it is I’m standing on. That being said, I’ve never been into slippers for outdoor climbing, and when I got the Python’s, I didn’t have any big plans or high expectations. I used them on plastic a couple of times, and they were nice, but everything changed the day I took them to Rifle.
I felt like I had stumbled across a door to a secret world, so this was what it was like to feel the holds under your feet! From that day forward, I’ve used them three to four times a week, all summer long, and they’ve become my go-to shoe for steep sport climbing. For the majority of this season, I’ve been climbing vertical to overhanging limestone, with foot holds that range from big, glassy ledges to small dimples and pockets. The Pythons allow for precision when standing on the most marginal of features, and even on the mirror-like bumps at Rifle I could stand with confidence, because I could FEEL the hold.
The fit is intended for lower volume feet, and the single Velcro strap helps cinch everything tight. The sole is a thin 3.5 mm XS Grip2, which is Vibram’s softest and stickiest offering. The unlined leather stretches to your foot, so be sure to get them a little tight. I have an 11.5 street shoe and went with 42’s, which was perfect. Being a slipper, they come on and off quite easily, which is nice since you’ll probably have them sized pretty tight for performance. And the toe hooking aficionados out there will find plenty of rubber on top for when the beta calls for fancy maneuvers.
Of course, these shoes aren’t for everyone, but those who appreciate a high level of sensitivity for steep climbing should find them to be an excellent choice. They’ve certainly allowed me to push my limits with new confidence this summer.
Retail on the Pythons is $130, more info and tech specs are available over at the La Sportiva website.
no images were found
Disclaimer: This product was provided to SplitterChoss.com for the purpose of reviewing. Like that makes a difference for how much we beat the crap out of it …
Hayden Carpenter and Tom Bohanon recently repeated an obscure ice climb on the south side of Mt Sopris. Given a brief mention in Jack Robert’s ice guide, Bulldog Creek Walk is described as being 100 meters of WI 4. What they found was seven pitches of ice in a remote setting that makes for one […]
Hey BJ, Thanks for another good review of another shoe I’m interested in. I too have recently had the revelation that sensitivity is where it’s at with footwork and shoes. I have had (and do have) several pairs of shoes, but the only thing I climb in anymore is a pair of Cobras (and a pair of TC Pros for trad and alpine). I find the TC Pros really difficult to transition to when I’m climbing in the Cobras so much since they are about the most insensitive shoe I know of. So I’m in the market for a good middle ground that I can use as a sending shoe for mid-grade boulders and vertical to steep sport that will be a bit stiffer than the cobras, but still maintain a good bit of feeling.
My three front runners at the moment are the Python, the Miura (lace), and the Scarpa Instinct (lace). I gather these are three shoes you have some substantial experience with, so maybe you could help me out. I’m leaning toward the Instinct as I worry the Python is too similar to the Cobra, and the Miura too similar to the TC Pro (in terms of what they’re specialized for), and the Instinct may be a good in-between. The Instinct attracts me for its thinner 3.5 XS Grip 2, which is the same as my Cobras (and the Pythons for that matter); and also its unlined leather upper. But it is a lace-up so I’m sure it’s less sensitive than the Python. My question is how much sensitivity is sacrificed.
Can you give me some idea of how the sensitivities of these shoes (Python, Miura, Instinct) compare in your experience? Also any other general thoughts on the Instinct since you wrote the review? Do they still have a place in your quiver?
Much thanks, sorry for the long question, but the background information may be kind of important to the answer.
Trey, I think you should check out the Instinct. The Python’s are basically the same as your Cobra’s, and the Miuras are a little bit stiffer than the Instincts. That being said, for me the Miura is my favorite shoe EVER, as it crushes at everything. It’s not really the same as the TC Pro’s, those are WAY stiffer and not nearly as adept at steep sport climbing. Hope that helps!
Hi BJ,
Great review. I too love the Miura lace ups, hands down the best all around shoe I’ve ever had. I’m in the market for a good bouldering shoe/slipper for both indoors and outdoors. Here’s my question: do I try the new Pythons or stick with the Miura VS for daily workouts and outdoor boulder ventures? Let me know what you think. Thanks man!
Lucas
Lucas,
The Muira VS is very different from the Python. If you are looking for something super sensitive and soft, go with the Python. If you want a little more meat on the shoe, go with the VS. I love the Python for foot work intensive routes where I really want to feel what’s going on with my toes.
I hate to ask a similar question, but here it goes. Been climbing in 5.10’s for years, but want to try Vibram rubber. Want to get either the Scarpa Instinct or the LS Pythons, and you’ve done a great review of both of them. I prefer (love) more sensitive shoes, but I also want an aggressive toe. Some reviewers have compared the Python with a more sensitive Testarosa, which the guys at my gym swear by. I’m a pure sport and bouldering climber. My current shoes are Moccasyms, Jet 7, and Anasazi, w/ my Mocc’s being my go to.
What would you suggest, the Instinct Lace or the Python?
Yet to climb in these, but they feel awesome so far. I wear a size 11 street shoe, sometimes 11.5 and ordered 43.5. Middle toe is knuckled and can not stand in them at all, let alone wear them for more than a minute or two. Recommend just breaking them in, or sizing up? Based on your sizing I feel like keeping these.
Hmm, I would bet they will stretch enough that you will like them. I have an 11.5 street shoe, and 42.5’s are an ideal size for me. If you have a wide foot, however, it might be a different story.