New Routes in Rifle

The good folks over at Wolverine Publishing have set up a page for new route updates in Rifle. I’ve reposted the info below with permission. Enjoy!

Last revised on December 14, 2008

Numbers refer to the guidebook for each sector.

RUCKMAN CAVE

0a. Wreaths of Wrath 12b/c **
Farthest left route on Ruckman Cave. Start just left of Kielbasa Run.
More long exciting vertical technical-ness on excellent gray stone from Darek.
100ft. ?Bs. Darek Krol 08

0b. Kielbasa Run 12a **
Start just left of Noble Wife. A very long technical route. Darek undertook the Herculean task of wire-brushing this thing, but there’s still some dirty rock. It should clean up and become a classic. It’s very cool to climb all the way to the top of this big wall, and there’s some thin Buoux type slab right up near the top. Needs a 70 meter rope to lower.
110ft. 17Bs. Darek Krol 08.

3. Shibumi 13a ***
This route now has a good 4 bolt direct start courtesy of Steve Damboise. No change to the overall grade.

5a. Waiting for 21 5.13b/c **
Climbs Beer Run to the good rest after the first crux. Then angle right and up the wall with some hard crimping and the sort of high steps only teenager’s can do. Hayden eats this grade for breakfast and it took him a few tries, so I’m sure it’s hard.
Hayden Kennedy 2008.

19a. Princess of Turandot 5.11c
Extends Nessun Dorma (19). Hard insecure and a bit scary (because of the ledge below you) right above the anchors on Nessun Dorma. 70 meter rope required to lower.
120ft. 17Bs. Darek Krol 08.

ANTI-PHIL

21a. Night Vision 5.11c
Extends Ride The Snake.
90 ft. 10Bs. Darek Krol, Brad Buhrow, 2008.

22a. Blue and Black 5.12a *
Extends Purple and Green, with a hard sequence on sidepulls right off the anchor.
90ft. Darek Krol, Bard Buhrow, 2008.

THE BAUHAUS
10. Girl Talk 5.14c ****
Andy Raethers project, climbed by Dave Graham, listed as undone project in guide. You might have seen videos of this one and read about the controversial FA in the mags. Probably the hardest route in Rifle and one of the best. The direct start of Benign Intervention and continuing to the anchors of Huge at the very top of the wall.
100ft. Dave Graham, 2008.

CANINE WALL

0a. Mutt Lange 5.10d/11a
First route encountered on the Canine Wall if approaching directly from Feline.
40ft. 4Bs. Michael McGee, Andre Young, 2008

SECTOR M

6a. Hazed and Infused. 5.11a**
A great technical face climb 20 ft right of Vikings. Climbs a brushed streak up a tall vertical face. This one will keep you thinking and on your toes all the way to the anchors.
80 ft. 11Bs. Michael and Rachel McGee, 2008.

MIDDLE ICE CAVES

6a. Rickles 5.7 **
A fun and popular route up a flake system right of Pryor. The right-most and easiest route on The Funny Face.
50ft. 9Bs. Michael and Rachel McGee, 2008

9a. Costello 5.10d *
Left of Carlin. The farthest left route on Funny Face.
60ft. 12Bs. Michael J. and Rachel McGee.

SKULL CAVE

8. Broken Bone 5.13d *
Bone Machine, reclimbed and rennamed by Joe Kinder after the hold broke.
Joe Kinder 2008.

THE ARSENAL

3a. Das Fruit Machine 5.13a **
A good kneebar-dependent route that plugs the blinding obvious gap between Pretty Hate Machine and Matador Pants.
8Bs. Dave Pegg, 2008.

WICKED CAVE

7. The Crew 5.14c ***
Uprated to 5.14c. Holds have broken on the bottom of this route. The consensus grade seems to be .14c.

SNO CONE WALL

8a. Achilles 5.14a ***
Danny’s new route up the line of angling steepness on the far left side of the Sno-Cone wall opposite the Arsenal. Reputed to be very good and hard.

Danny Robertson, 2008

Copyright 2008, Wolverine Publishing. All rights reserved.