Coal Creek Rock

The Coal Creek area has seen a lot of attention recently, both for bouldering and sport climbing opportunities. The sport climbing takes place on the large red cliffs near the entrance of the canyon, on the same rock band the Redstone boulders come from. The bouldering is up the road at the large talus field and the rock for the most part is excellent, more reminiscent of Dakota sandstone, but harder.

To get here, follow Hwy 133 south out of Carbondale. Go just past the second Redstone entrance and take a right on the county road leading back into Coal Basin.

Coal Creek Boulders

While people have occasionally played around on the blocks in Coal Basin in the past, climbers have now started looking at the area in a new light. What was once seen as a mess of bad landings is now made more friendly by the use of several pads.

The rock for the most part is excellent; a super hard sandstone. The boulders sit in a talus field, and as such, some of the landings require several pads/spotters to be safe. There are still many undone/unrecorded problems. It’s amazing the 345 boulder went unnoticed for so long.

Take the county road for several miles, past the large red cliffs, until you come to an obvious talus/boulder field on the right. Park in the large pullout and walk back up towards the boulders.

Download the topo (pdf)
(This is a little rough, but it should point you in the right direction.)

Coal Creek Sport Climbing

Talk about overlooked! People have been driving by these big red cliffs for years. Jeff Jackson wasted little time when he first came to the valley by adding these sport routes. The rock isn’t the best, and can get dirty, espcially after it rains, but the climbing is supposed to be fun when the routes are clean. Be sure to bring a brush.

Currently there are 7 routes. At the roadside wall, there are three lines. The left line that follows the obvious right angling weakness through a roof is Touchdown Jesus, 5.12b. The next line to the right is John Henry, 3-pitches: 12d, 12d, 5.8. The first two pitches can be combined for a long 13a. There is a line to the right of John Henry, but only the first pitch has been freed at 12b. The second pitch is the business. Jeff calls the line Choctaw.

Four lines are found up the gully on the left side of the crag at the Dog Wall. Hike for about 8 minutes up the gully until you arrive at a 50-foot crag. From left to right, the routes are 5.11, 5.12, 5.10, and 5.11+.