The Puoux is not a destination climbing area but it can be a good place to get a quick fix of limestone sport climbing. There are some quality routes here, especially if you can get past the drone of the interstate and the whine of the passing trains.
Season: Year round. Summers can be hot and afternoon shade is the best. Winter can be cold but the wall gets good sun during the day and the rock tends to stay dry.
Directions: From Glenwood Springs, drive east on I-70 to the No Name exit. Take the exit and get on west I-70. In 1/4 mile, there is a large dirt pullout on the right. You can park there or park in a small pullout next to the “Tunnel” sign just a little farther.
Guidebook: Western Sloper by David Pegg
This is the wall closest to the road, and Roadside Attraction is the first climb you’ll come to. You can access the anchors for top roping by scrambling around to the right. Climbs are listed from right to left, starting at the furthest right section of the wall.
Unnamed, 5.9
The rightmost route on the wall. Climbs through a mini cave/overhang. 5 bolts
Unnamed, 5.10c
Second route from the right. Sharp holds. Sometimes called Sharkstooth. Pretty good. 4 bolts
Slab, 5.8
Slab on the right side of Roadside Wall. Popular. Face climb to the left has bolted anchors. Crack to the right has a pin for a directional. 5 bolts
Traditional Values, 5.6
Crack with bolts, up to anchors.
Unnamed, 5.11b
Face climb to the right of the 5.10a route. Thin crux. Very good. 5 bolts
Unnamed, 5.10a
Right and uphill of Roadside Attraction. A coffee-table size flat boulder lies at the base. A favorite and popular climb. 7 bolts
5.10a toprope
Toprope crack right of Roadside Attraction.
Roadside Attraction, 5.8+
First climb on trail. Can’t miss it. 10a in Pegg guidebook but most consider to be in 5.8 range. 4 bolts
Road Runner, 5.9
Second pitch to Roadside Attraction or hike around and start from ledge at top of Roadiside. Another great climb. Roadside and Road Runner can also be done in one pitch. 4 bolts
Unnamed, 5.9
To the right of Road Runner is a fun 5.9 that climbs up sharp cracks clipping bolts and couple old pins.
Unnamed, 5.9
To the left of Road Runner is a new bolted line. Begins to the left of tree on the large ledge.
Unnamed, 5.11b from ledge
Bolted seam on far left side of ledge.
The Ballerina, 5.10b
Left of Roadside Attraction. Thin, sharp, bouldery start to easy climbing. 3 bolts
Spine Fish, 5.11a
Two routes left of Roadside Attraction. Thin, sharp holds. A little runout. 3 bolts
This is a large, overhanging area to the left of the Roadside Wall. It begins where the trail climbs the steep slope. Routes listed right to left or as you approach them on the trail.
Kor’s Corner, 5.11d
Obvious steep corner. An area classic.
Hard Kor, 5.12b
Traverse left from roof on Kor’s over bulge.
Hard Kor Direct, 5.12b
Extension to Hard Kor.
Urban Cowboy, 5.12a
First route left of Kor’s Corner.
Suburban Cowboy, 5.12d
Extension to Urban Cowboy.
Flying Cowboys, 5.13b
Left of Urban Cowboy. Traverses right into roof of Urban Cowboy and then up left to anchors.
Area above and to the left of the Main Wall. Distinguished by large, chossy cave in the middle. Routes listed right to left or as approached on trail.
Youth, 5.12c
First route in the Upper Levels. 12c to top anchors or 11d to first set of anchors. Need a 70 meter rope for 12c.
Honk in the Tunnel, 5.12b
Start from ledge above Unnamed route.
The Long Haul, 5.13a
Climb up scary looking fixed ropes to approach this climb and the project to the left.
5.11c on boulder
3 bolt climb on large boulder to left of wall. Good 5.12 topropes on the arete and the north face of boulder.
Three projects in 5.13+ to 5.14- range.
Thanks to Mike Schneiter for this information.
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