Quartzite Wasteland

The Quartzite Wasteland is a recently developed area on the, you guessed it, quartzite of Glenwood Canyon. After our forays at the Dead Horse crag, Mike Schneiter started looking around for other zones of this high quality rock. He didn’t have to look far, as this crag sits just up stream from the Dead Horse cliff. The routes vary from 30′ to 100′ tall.

A helmet is a good idea, as all of the climbs are new and there is still some loose rock here and there. For gear you’ll need a double set of cams, a few stoppers, runners, and quickdraws.

This area receives morning and mid-day sun and nice shade by early afternoon.

Directions

Park at the Hanging Lake rest area off I-70 in Glenwood Canyon (exit # 125). Hike east on the bike path, passing the Hanging Lake Trail. A few minutes past the trail is a rockwall/revegetation project within yards of the trail. Just past that is a couple of large boulders in the grass on the left side of the trail. Hike past these boulders and scramble up rock underneath a tree. Above the scrambling, hike on a faint trail that contours the slope underneath a collection of granite crags. This trail heads into the scrub oak before traversing to a large scree slope. Hike up the scree slope on the larger, more stable rocks. Near the top of the scree slope find a faint trail that makes a couple of switchbacks before meeting the quartzite cliff. Hike left ten yards to the first of the climbs, Loss of Innoncence. Total hiking time from the car is 15 to 20 minutes.

Routes, listed Left to Right:
Interstate Love Song, 5.11+, 2 bolts and gear
Twig and Berries, 5.7, 1 bolt and gear
Charcoal Burger Daydream, 5.10d, 8 bolts and gear
El Lagarto Borracho, 5.10d PG-13, 6 bolts and gear
Flip Ya Lid, 5.8, 3 bolts
Something From Nothing, 5.10a, 3 bolts and one cam
Loss of Innocence, 5.10d, 5 bolts

Download the Topo (pdf)

The climbing is a lot of fun and Charcoal Burger Daydream would be a classic pitch at any crag in the country, definitely go check it out.