SplitterChoss Updates Archive
5/2/06 - Check out the Climbing Magazine 250th issue contest. They've got a really cool flash movie that lets you view every cover that's been printed. You can also vote for your favorite one and be entered in a contest to win Mammut gear. Good stuff.
5/1/06 - I've added a pdf overview map of the Roadside area at the Coal Creek boulders, as well as the text description to go with it. I'm still learning Illustrator so the map is a little rough, but I think it will make sense once you get there. The rock here is great and while there aren't many hard problems (most clock in around V1-V4), there is a lot of fun stuff to do. Check it out and email me if you need more beta.
4/26/06 - In the entertainment category, this past weekend I had a bona fide encounter with some splitter choss in central Utah. The route started out well, but I noticed some strange tick marks. As I climbed higher, I realized they weren't marking holds, but the gear placements that were bomber in the otherwise suspect rock. Definitely made for an exciting outing, and the climb will be nice after about 100 or 1000 more people climb it. Good fun.
4/25/06 - The weather couldnt be more perfect for climbing these days, hope everyone is getting out. I've added some more info to all the areas and put up the section on Glenwood Canyon. As always let me know if you have any info you'd like on here.
4/13/06 - I've been making changes to the site architecture, hence the lack of updates. Look for info on Glenwood Canyon and topos to the Coal Creek Boulders coming soon!
4/12/06 - Went up the Crystal River Valley today, looking pretty dry up there. The road into Coal Basin is open and there is no snow on it, the boulders looked mostly dry. There was a massive mudslide just before the boulder field, impressive the size of some of the trees that were taken out. And believe it or not, Single Parenting looks like if you are crazy/bored/dumb enough could still be climbed. It's a strong contender for the longest lasting ice climb in the valley.
3/28/06 - I finally updated the photos page. I'll be adding more at some point. If you have photos you want to post, put them up in the User Galleries.
3/27/06 - Put up a whole lot of new info. Check out Lime Park, Hagerman Pass, and the Rifle Arch.
3/23/06 - I'm in the middle of some site updates, bear with me if you see something weird. Info on Lime Park and Hagerman Pass coming soon.
3/13/06 - Looks like winter is back for the time being. I added some routes to the Main Elk Creek area. Also, in the spirit of chossaneering, here's an entertaining article on the subject. "Does it ring like a gong? That's not a good sign..." Read more.
3/6/06 - Posted some info about the Main Elk climbing areas: the Pup Tent (including a topo courtesy of Dave Pegg and Wolverine Publishing) and Main Elk Creek. These are great spots to climb at right now, as they get a lot of sun. I got a nice sunburn to prove it. Check 'em out.
3/3/06 - The ice has taken a major beating with all the warm weather. Time to go rock climbing. Look for info about the Rifle Arch and Main Elk coming soon!
2/20/06 - Ice in Redstone looks great, I think we've reached the point where the routes are going to get fatter and fatter until they fall down. All the major climbs are in, with the exception of Dancing in the Moonlight, which apparently has no ice on the first pitch, weird. Rifle is also good right now, from what I hear.
In other news, Greg Williams sheds some light on the origins of the term "splitter choss."
2/16/06 - We're still in the heart of winter, but I've started to add some info about local rock climbing to the site. Check out the Coal Creek sport routes.
2/15/06 - It's been awhile since I've climbed any ice, been skiing mostly. This is always the time of year I start to get psyched on bigger backcountry descents, and the ice climbing takes a back seat. I know not everyone feels this way, however. Take, for example, local climber Greg Williams, who has pared down his Avocado Gulley speed ascent time to 1 hour, 23 minutes. The stop watch starts and ends at the bridge over the Crystal River just south of town by the fish hatchery, and this time is for a roped team of two. Have at it!
2/3/06 - Check out Deep Throat photos here.
2/1/06 - Kevin Cooper and Ryan Jennings have made the likely second ascent of Deep Throat in Glenwood Canyon. Ryan had this to say about it "It took three days, two big falls on the final pitch, two dropped tools, big runouts, the worst rock I’ve ever climbed, so so anchors, and fixing ropes on the first two pitches. Kevin finished off the last pitch after pulling to his highpoint after falling so we didn’t redpoint it. We both felt it was the best mixed route we’ve climbed, including routes in Canada. No bolts on the route make it a serious climb on bad rock with bad pro put up by visionary climbers in a time far ahead of itself. It truly is a statement of the skills Jeff and Will had developed when they envisioned and sent this climb." Deep Throat was first climbed by Will Gadd and Jeff Lowe in January of 1997. It reportedly took Will 4 hours to lead the crux final pitch. Stay tuned for photos.
In related news, Cooper and Jennings also put up a new mixed route in Redstone recently. Dishin' it Out climbs overhanging rock to ice, and is (gasp) protected with 3 bolts. Somebody's been eating their Wheaties.
1/26/06 - Word on the street is that most ice climbs are in. I've decided to take down the conditions page and rely on community based updates in the message boards from now on. So if you feel like it, post a message to let everybody know what you find out there.
1/15/06 - I'm currently out of town for the week, check out the message boards for updated conditions info.
1/7/06 - Sure is warm out there. Still the ice looks good, all things considered. Hays was fun sno-cone climbing today. If it gets cold, things should be back on track. Check out the conditions page for a bunch of recent photos.
1/3/06 - Happy New Year everyone! Sorry for the lack of updates, after a trip back east and 3 days in Ouray I'm finally back in town. The ice in Ouray was great even with the warm temps. Word around here is things have taken a beating, hopefully I'll find out soon.
12/23/05 - No ice climbing for me right now, I'm back in Virginia for Christmas. Maybe some rock climbing tomorrow if the weather stays nice. Added a bunch of routes to Redstone and Coal Creek. Check 'em out.
12/20/05 - Ryan Jennings and Robbie Williams climbed a new route in Redstone this past weekend. Check out the Dirt Pimp.
12/19/05 - Both the skiing and the ice climbing are great right now. Hopefully this keeps up all winter. Some of the climbs are incredibly fat for this time of year. We got to climb the False Drool yesterday, and the access situation has been improved. Check the link for more info. Please keep a low profile and approach this climb by parking on the east side of the road and walking up the gulley to the climb. We'll be putting up a sign in the gulley with more info, stay tuned.
12/15/05 - Checked out Single Parenting today. Definitely a fun, moderate pitch. It must have been -10 in Coal Creek this morning, and it still had running water on it. Weird.
12/12/05 - Greg Williams and Auden Schendler climbed a new route in Coal Creek yesterday, check it out here.